haireball Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 On 9/21,Kyle Flick and I climbed the version of this route that Alan Kearney describes, and found it surprisingly stellar. Thirteen belayed pitches of superb rock, interspersed with another thousand feet or so of "simulclimbing". A better-than-perfect outing deteriorated to epic status on the descent, when both of my thirty-year-old crampons broke on the bulletproof ice of the Colchuck glacier. After several hours of step-cutting and bolard-chopping, I swallowed my pride and had Kyle lower me several pitches to the talus. Seven bloody (literally) hours from the summit to the lake! Oh-well...the front-points on those 'poons were down to less than half their original length -this seems a good enough excuse to buy new ones... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 23, 2002 Share Posted September 23, 2002 I've heard that is a good climb too. Upgrade? These fuckers fit on sneakers and any boots. I'm sure you know heheh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slaphappy Posted September 24, 2002 Share Posted September 24, 2002 13 pitches? I remember 7 maybe 8. Other than the first pitch, (5.8) the route is soft for the grade. It was fun and for the most part on good stone. Congrats! *Oh, and Alan's route beta is right on. [ 09-23-2002, 05:08 PM: Message edited by: slaphappy ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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