Wired_Knut Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 Looking for some route beta, anyone been up there latley? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted September 6, 2002 Share Posted September 6, 2002 Went up there in late July of this year. See Big Snow Spray  Is that "lately" enough? What do you wanna know?  pic from climb Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wired_Knut Posted September 7, 2002 Author Share Posted September 7, 2002 the old brown becky says it goes to A1, the 2nd edition says to 5.7 Â what's your estimate on the grade? standard alpine rack ? sound like quality rock, yes/no ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 Looks like pretty damn good rock to me in all those photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted September 7, 2002 Share Posted September 7, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Wired Knut: the old brown becky says it goes to A1, the 2nd edition says to 5.7 what's your estimate on the grade? There are two routes (at least) listed in the old Brown Beckey. I think we came close to doing the 5.7 one once. It's about 5.7. The A1 one is the "prominent dihedral". I think we looked down this thing the last time up there. It looks sweet (and quite steep). There's quite bit of terrain up there. I don't think I ever did exactly what's in the Beckey guide (maybe we did?) Two times found some cool 5.9 pitches, but most of it was around 5.7. Some places run out. Â quote: standard alpine rack ? Depends on what you call a standard alpine rack. Brought stuff up to Camalot #4. There's lots of roundy flared stuff. Not really great protection everywhere. Â quote: sound like quality rock, yes/no ? Varies. There are huge expanses of clean bomber rock. But once you get turned onto the North flank of the upper part it gets all bushy, mossy and crumbly. I think the strategy is to try to stay on the South flank, but it gets very steep up there. Â Is the road closed down yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wired_Knut Posted September 7, 2002 Author Share Posted September 7, 2002 The road is still open but don't know for how long. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrench Posted August 4, 2004 Share Posted August 4, 2004 Some friends and I have been looking for info on this climb, but there's not much out there. I came across this old thread here, but wondering if anyone has climbed it since. Any new beta on road conditions/approach? Has anyone done the route? Is it worth the time? Thanks for any info... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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