East Buttress, Big Snow ?

[Wired_Knut]

Looking for some route beta, anyone been up there latley?

[chucK]

Went up there in late July of this year. See Big Snow Spray

 

Is that "lately" enough? What do you wanna know?

 

pic from climb

[Wired_Knut]

the old brown becky says it goes to A1, the 2nd edition says to 5.7

 

what's your estimate on the grade?

standard alpine rack ?

sound like quality rock, yes/no ?

[Cpt.Caveman]

Looks like pretty damn good rock to me in all those photos.

[chucK]

quote:

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Originally posted by Wired Knut:

the old brown becky says it goes to A1, the 2nd edition says to 5.7

what's your estimate on the grade?

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There are two routes (at least) listed in the old Brown Beckey. I think we came close to doing the 5.7 one once. It's about 5.7. The A1 one is the "prominent dihedral". I think we looked down this thing the last time up there. It looks sweet (and quite steep). There's quite bit of terrain up there. I don't think I ever did exactly what's in the Beckey guide (maybe we did?) Two times found some cool 5.9 pitches, but most of it was around 5.7. Some places run out.

 

quote:

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standard alpine rack ?

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Depends on what you call a standard alpine rack. Brought stuff up to Camalot #4. There's lots of roundy flared stuff. Not really great protection everywhere.

 

quote:

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sound like quality rock, yes/no ?

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Varies. There are huge expanses of clean bomber rock. But once you get turned onto the North flank of the upper part it gets all bushy, mossy and crumbly. I think the strategy is to try to stay on the South flank, but it gets very steep up there.

 

Is the road closed down yet?

[Wired_Knut]

The road is still open but don't know for how long.

[wrench]

Some friends and I have been looking for info on this climb, but there's not much out there. I came across this old thread here, but wondering if anyone has climbed it since. Any new beta on road conditions/approach? Has anyone done the route? Is it worth the time? Thanks for any info...