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MountainMan

Sherpa - W. Ridge

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Climbed the W. Ridge of Sherpa on Saturday 8/10 with two other climbers. We left the parking lot at 4:45AM and made the hump up over Long's Pass. Once on Long's Pass, we descended into the Ingall's Creek basin and headed east towards the approach to the Stuart/Sherpa Col. We were at the col at 8:45AM, and we then proceeded to rope up and start climbing. With 3 people, it took a lot of time to do the actual climbing. We didn't summit until about 1:00PM. Going back up and over Long's Pass was quite brutal after 13 hours of climbing. We finally got back to the car at about 8:45PM, right before it got dark.

 

Overall it was a great trip. With only two people on your rope team, your time spent on the rock will be almost half of what ours was. A strong two-person team should be able to do this route in 13-14 hours. I would highly recommend a strong party do this route in one day, versus hauling gear up and over Long's Pass twice for an overnighter. Now we're off to go climb Fisher Chimneys today and tomorrow ... full report to come.

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Good job, MountainMan! I enjoyed this route last Friday. Only low point in the day was misplacing my sun glasses. Did you happen to find a pair of black oakleys in a black cloth case?

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Darren,

No, I didn't find any sunglasses. I know how frustrating that is though ... I've lost several cameras, sunglasses, and ice axes throughout the years. I did find a #5 nut on the Shuksan summit pyramid today though. Certainly payback for all the stuff I've lost along the way.

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Thanks, MountainMan! It's a bummer but ultimately a small price to pay to the Climbing Gods for a safe, beautiful day in the mountains.

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Do you know how the west ridge of sherpa compares to the west ridge of stuart as far as ability to solo. I know what the grade is but do you think the route finding and moves are pretty similar or is the sherpa route harder? Would you solo sherpa if you had soloed stuart, have you done stuart?

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I haven't climbed the W. Ridge of Stuart, I took the Cascadian Couloir. We tried to climb the W. Ridge earlier this summer but got rained out. As for soloing the W. Ridge of Sherpa, it's very possible if you're comfortable with 5.5 alpine. I would say (from what I've heard) that the W. Ridge of Stuart is more difficult than the W. Ridge of Sherpa .. but again, I haven't climbed Stuart W. Ridge so perhaps someone else on the site can offer their input. There is really only one or two moves on Sherpa that are somewhat tricky, and even those moves are fairly straight-forward. The rock route on Sherpa is pretty short, and if you're soloing it, it would probably only take you about 45 minutes to an hour of climbing. Routefinding is very easy on Sherpa ... just follow the rap stations. Good luck if you go, and give us a TR when you return.

 

[ 08-14-2002, 10:30 AM: Message edited by: MountainMan ]

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No balanced rock guys? __________________________________

 

As for soloing, the West ridge would be easy and safe. The part that would probably make the average Joe alpinist to pause would be a 15 foot section of off fingers. Only 5.6, but if your crack leading limit was say... 5.9, You'd better concentrate pretty hard or you're ridin' the range. I guess I sound like a mountie.

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We didn't have time for the balanced rock. I tried to get my partner to go for it, but he wasn't sharing my motivation, especially with a Fisher Chimneys trip planned for the following day.

 

Jens, nice work on Formidable! I might repeat that route this summer. I'll contact you for some beta soon if we decide to go for it.

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quote:

Originally posted by mikeadam:

Jens I know you secretly support the Sierra Club...
[Wink]

But don't tell them that I pack heat into the Pickets to supplement my rations with wild game.

 

Mountainman....

You should definitely check out the route on Formidable. Also there are several obvious lines that are waiting on the face. It's a lot like the South face of Forbidden only it's twice as high and a lot wider. Well, enough chestbeating for now.

[big Drink][HORSECOCK]

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