Full NR of Stuart

[Lambone]

bcollins,

 

I think alot of it depends on the temps. when we did it the snow on the glacier had frozen over night and it would have been scary without crampons.

 

I wouldn't leave the ice axe behind unless you are comfortable traversing above large crevases with no means of self arrest. A super light axe would be best, no crampons if its looking warm. Have fun!

[ryland_moore]

BCollins stated that he would leave behind axe and crampons if using the Mountaineers Creek appraoch, but what about the snow conditions on false summit heading over to Cascadian couloir? Would you bring an axe all the way up for this section on the descent? Lambone?

[Lambone]

quote:

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Originally posted by bcollins:

BTW......looking at doing the upper No. ridge via Goat next weekend. Anyone been on the Stuart recently??? Is it possible to traverse it now without an ice axe or crampons while wearing appoach shoes??? I'd almost rather take 2 long ice screws and belay across than take an axe, boots, and crampons. This is a one day trip from the Teanaway. Any suggestions?

 

Barry

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ryland,

From this information I gathered that he was talking about the stuart glacier to the upper north ridge. It is not very steep, and if the snow was soft you could probably run across in tennis shoes...but if it's icy and you slip without an axe...well lets just hope you have time to kiss your ass good bye before plumiting into the dark caverns below...

 

to answer your question. the snow at the top of the cascadian can be skirted on (descenders) right via loose dirt/scree/boulders...etc. With an ice axe you can essentialy glissade down it, quicker and easier. It is pretty steep at the top, and very rocky at the bottom, so probably wise to have some kind of tool if you venture onto the snow.

 

so, yes I was glad to have my axe, and would bring an axe if I were to do it again. However, I'd probably invest into one of those techy superlight ones they've got over at feathered friends, and aluminum strap-ons.

 

I think rock shoes make the climbing on the ridge more enjoyable as well, I remember lots of friction moves.

 

[ 08-08-2002, 03:17 PM: Message edited by: Lambone ]

[russ]

quote:

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Originally posted by Lambone:

so, yes I was glad to have my axe, and would bring an axe if I were to do it again. However, I'd probably invest into one of those techy superlight ones they've got over at feathered friends, and aluminum strap-ons.

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With the combination of a shortish grivel airtech racer and stubai ultralight crampons, I don't even debate taking them along anymore. very little weight penalty.

[Buckaroo]

""If you were doing the full north ridge of stuart, which approach would you use? (stuart lake trail or Ingalls Lake trail) and Why?""

 

stuart lake trail for winter routes 'cuz the sherpa is the easiest descent in winter

 

Ingalls for summer 'cuz sherpa is broken in summer

 

""We have the ability to leave a vehicle at Ingalls Lake trail head to decend via cascadian couloir and avoid a north side decent if approaching via stuart lake.""

 

don't see much advantage to approaching from the north in summer, and since cascadian is the easiest descent why not approach from same direction?

 

another way to descend would be the west ridge, if you could stand the exposure after getting off the north. You would avoid the big altitude losses and gains of the cascadian that way.

 

"" You will not need an ice axe or crampons and can do the appoach to the No. Ridge in approach shoes.""

 

agree totally

 

""BTW......looking at doing the upper No. ridge via Goat next weekend. Anyone been on the Stuart recently??? Is it possible to traverse it now without an ice axe or crampons while wearing appoach shoes??? I'd almost rather take 2 long ice screws and belay across than take an axe, boots, and crampons. ""

 

the majority of snow/ice/glacier is on the approach. If your worried about it just find a stick and carve it to a sharp point, then you can just toss it when you get onto the rock.

 

""This is a one day trip from the Teanaway. Any suggestions?""

 

to achieve full flavor make it two days, do the complete ridge and bivy at the notch. But go ultra light with a half bag etc.

 

the guide almighty combo rock shoe-approach shoe are perfect for this climb. Fit them as you would a hiker and stuff a piece of ensolite blue foam in the heel to tighten them up for the gendarme pitch.