Stuart NW Buttress Descent Info

[Ben]

The latest ed. of CAC v.1 mentions the NW Buttress of Stuart as a possible descent for the north side routes on that mountain. From the pictures, it looks ideal for returning to a bivy site at goat pass. Anyone got any beta on it? Is there an obvious rap route, or is it mostly confusing downclimbing? Also, getting to the top of the buttress from the summit seems nontrivial to me -- it's a ways down the west ridge...

 

--Ben

[Cpt.Caveman]

I think I remember Bug saying that he did it. COuld have been someone else but it was discussed here recently 90 days or so.

[dbb]

A friend did the route a year or so ago and said it was pretty mellow. Mostly 4th or low 5th class. I'd imagine that if you're quick and confident downclimbing that terrain solo then it could make sense as a north side descent. (Though if you're just trying to do the NR w/ a day pack, I'm sure there are better ways...)

[Bug]

Look at the Becky guide for Stuart NW Butt. He calls it a class 3 and 4 but I've never found a class 3 or 4 route above the West Ridge notch (5.6 - 5.7). Below that I found slings for raps here and there on the general description that Becky gives of the route. I didn't climb the route. I was trying to find an easier way down from the N Ridge. It was not easy route finding but it was a quick way that day. If you got into one of the lower gullies or even too far off the main ridge, you would have an interesting time amoungst underclings and loose blocks. I recommend it only if you are good at route finding. It is huge, complex terrain.