Alpine dayclimbs near PDX

[scheissami]

Hey,

 

Does anybody have any suggestions for alpine rock climbs near PDX? I'm a total newb in the PNW and am interested in multipitch easy-ish routes (prolly 5.8-5.9 max difficulty). Especially interested in stuff that could be done within 24 hrs pdx to pdx. I'm looking for stuff throughout the year, but also in particular areas that are in condition now...

 

Appreciate the help.

 

-e

[sweatinoutliquor]

Hello! Welcome to the area! So, not sure where you're gonna find good alpine rock routes this time of year... You comfy with glaciers and steep snow? Obviously you are close to Hood routes, which are probably the best bet for alpine now, specially for "one dayerz." Once the driving approach to the Sisters area (via pole creek) or Mt. Jefferson areas start to open up there are great, though very strenous one day routes there. Mostly snow and ice climbs here... Don't expect much from the rock on the cascade volcanos, it's mostly crap. Once things start to melt out there are decent routes on Mt Washington, Broken top, or mt Theilsen. Mostly choss, but if you read "Oregon High" it becomes rapidly apparent which routes suck. If you want good alpine rock routes this summer, you are going to have to start thinking about the north cascades. From PDX, I would expect that most trips you will take will be >1 day. Sure, maybe the routes will go in one day, but often the driving approach will be 3 hours minimum.

I recommend checking out the following books:

Oregon High - Jeff Thomas

Selected Climbs in the Cascades (Vol I and II) - Nelson and Potterfield

Cascade Alpine Guide (Vol I - III) - Fred Beckey

 

Each of these will be a great resource for ya. Finally, I would say don't forget that Smith is only 3ish hours from ya... Not alpine, though really a climbing destination not to be missed if you living in OR. Good luck out there!

[John Frieh]

Snoqualmie Pass can be 4 hours away... very traffic dependent. Gives you 16 hours to climb.

 

WA Pass is 6 hours away... also very traffic dependent. On the + side approaches are short so you could easily bag a route (or two?) at the Pass.

 

SOL already named the OR options though don't forget about the Matterhorn. Thielsen would be an excellent first alpine climb once the snow melts though it will take you longer to drive there and back then it will to hike it.

[Cobra_Commander]

tabor nordwand (2004 trimet variation)