[TR] - 11 O' clock couloir 2/25/2006

[jlag]

Climb: -11 O' clock couloir

 

Date of Climb: 2/25/2006

 

Trip Report:

With the climbing conditions primo the last 2 weekends and very little new snow in the Sisters area, figured routes in the crater would be somewhat safe. Letsroll was in town partying so we agreed to leave the sno-park by 7 or 8. On time, loaded up the sled with packs/skis/board and cuddled for the 15-20 minute approach ride. Skinned into the crater on wind-affected snow, and numerous other types of wintery white(windbuff, icy, crusty, etc). Took it mellow, admiring the numerous random mixed lines all over the inside of the crater bowl. (other reason we should of had a camera, sorry guys)There's a bunch of doable lines to the S. summit of Broken Top due to the snowpack, pretty spicy though. Also 9'O clock looks pretty fun, steeper up top but short and narrow. High Noon looks doable, but bold. From sled to the base of the couloir took just under 2 hours. Didn't look as windloaded as anticipated, and a break in the cornice up top- go time. Roped up and simul climbed to beneath a rock shelf, probably 500' or so. Max angle was 50-55 degrees with good climbing conditions, pretty consistent. I wouldn't say neve but good 'pooning and no hollow sound.

Belayed Letsroll on the next pitch-around the rockshelf and up to the notch in the ridge, he had to excavate for good pickets but solid, starts at 45 degrees and goes to 50+. Ridge was rime on sugar. Did I mention that we decided to climb w/ skis/board? Made it more interesting. Temps were rising, wouldn't want to be on that route later than that, upper part was getting soft. The Notch is a really cool spot, killer views and flat. Snacks, ditch boards. When then passed through the notch and started climbing on the oppostite side, traversing.

As we traversed the slope over to the NW ridge it was painfully obvious that the whole slope(35-40)was a rimey, sugary wallow. Not difficult, but relying on your upper tool was a joke and the runout is ugly. Decided to bail and ski/ride the lower W. face, been to the summit before. Shitty conditions, icy and rimey. What ya expect? Survival skied over to the base of the SW face and then rode more shitty conditions to the bottom. Still better than booting out of there, saved a ton of time. Up and over a ridge and then skinned back to the sled, probably just over an hour. I think we got back to the sled around 3-3:30. Toblerone and peanut butter, the new snack of kings. Sugar buzz and two stroke power energize us back to the truck and beer. Great trip, really good route. It's short but I was really suprised how steep it got. Will needs to ski it next time, would be worthy for sure.

 

Gear Notes:

tools, poons, helmet

60 m, 4 pickets

skis/skins/splitboard

should had a camera

 

Approach Notes:

Snowmo to Wilderness Boundary. Interesting riding double with 6'5" partner.

[sweatinoutliquor]

Sickity sick. Great job! I was wondering if anyone was going to get away from the Hood focus, and had thought about the 11 myself, though too busy with stoopid school. I guess the sled approach is pretty handy, eh? Too bad about the pics cause I'm sure they would have been schweet! Thanks for the writeup!

[letsroll]

What you did not like the cuddle on the sled. I thought it was good for you like it was good for me....lol. It was fun route. On the short side but for a quickie, much fun. Really wish we had a camera to take pics of all the possible lines in the crater. I will say taking the sled was money!!! Jlag, good climb. Had a blast.

[rbw1966]

When we skinned in there a few years back I remember thinking to myself, what I wouldn't give for a snowmobile. I heard they were illegal that far in though but I saw tracks in the crater.

 

Sounds like a fun day.

[letsroll]

you can sled to the edge of the wilderness, close to the crater. Not into the crater. Very well marked.

[rbw1966]

Good to know. Is there a place in Bend where you can rent sleds?

[jlag]

Cascade Motorsports, also some outfit out of Sisters doing tours. I think it's 3SBC.com, something like that. A bunch of places out of Sunriver, Advanced Perf. Rental and Central Oregon Adventures. We just got a bunch of new heavy snow overnight- can you say AVALANCHE.

[letsroll]

can you say freshies this weekend?....lol