cook Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Climb: Guye Peak-South Gully Date of Climb: 2/19/2006 Trip Report: The weather was so good this weekend, I arranged to come into work late on sunday and try the South Gully on Guye Peak. I've wanted to get up this route since last december when vraddict and I tried to climb it in the fog on the shortest day of the year. I left the Alpental lot at 6:45am and hiked back down the road and up near Sahale ski club slope and around to the south side of Guye. The Gully begins above a large snow slope piled with avalanche debris. The route was so different from last year, all the wet loose rock steps were covered with excellent hard snow, so the going was fast and easy. Last winter, we even had to climb a log in the gully. The climbing was just steep enough to be fun, but never hard or scary. Once out of the gully, I continued up, dodging exposed rock steps to the south summit. This was my first time on top of Guye in the wither and the summit area is too cool. I traversed north over the main summit and other sub summits. The short rock step before the final summit was dodgy 4th class slab covered with wet snow. I tried to climb this, but couldn't get a stick with my tool in the snow and ended up dropping down the gully to my right 25 feet and going back up, which was easy. From there it was shin deep sinking without gaiters back to my racecar and by 10:30am I was back in the rental shop. Guye Peak's West Face Start of Snow Gully Upper south side Looking back from near the summit Summit area Chair and friends Maybe vraddict will post a few photos from last year? Gear Notes: Crampons and one tool Approach Notes: No snowshoes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gyselinck Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Glad to see your gettin' out. Nice pictures Matt, beautiful area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook Posted February 21, 2006 Author Share Posted February 21, 2006 Thanks craig, same to you man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 I give this TR three yodas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Cook, would you clarify something for me? Is this gully just to the right of the South Spur? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spicoli11 Posted February 21, 2006 Share Posted February 21, 2006 Could you ski/board back down the way you came up if conditions were right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cook Posted February 21, 2006 Author Share Posted February 21, 2006 The gully is to the right of what the Beckey guide calls the south rib (right hand skyline when looking at the west face). When in the gully you have the rib on your left and what I suppose is the south spur on the right. Spicoli, I think its skiable, but there is exposed rock and lots of trees. I couldn't ski it because I suck. This looks skiable too. Located on the east side and descending into commonwealth basin. It ends near the summit just between the northern-most two summits. This spot used to be marked by tons of old rap webbing on a tree, but someone took it this summer. Thanks for the yodas Oly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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