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Posted

30 days would be a good amount of time to allow yourself for the entire trip to Alaska. As far as the route itself, if you are planning on doing it expedition style and acclimatizing on route, 2 weeks or less is plenty. If you are acclimatized and fit, the route can be done in 4 to 7 days round-trip from base camp.

Posted

i agree with joe in that two weeks should be plenty for the route. i think a fairly descent strategy for an average climber is to double carry to the gendarme camp and to the saddle camp. from there take like four or five days food and fuel and single carry over pk 12472(or something) and the ridge proper to high camp. from there you will have superb weather and send said mountain in a reasonable day. the ridge is really asthetic! excellent choice!

Posted

One more thing: bring a good quiver of wands for this route. The last 5000 vertical feet of the ridge is featureless in a storm.

 

Pax, very cool pictures.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted
One more thing: bring a good quiver of wands for this route. The last 5000 vertical feet of the ridge is featureless in a storm.

 

Pax, very cool pictures.

Just an FYI those are not PAX's photos. The last one there is mine. Its not that I care, but just a mention that others might. You should probably note that when you post other peoples photos.

Posted

My party of three spent 3 weeks between flights. This included one aborted trip to the top of Crosson that resulted in a cache, and three total attempts on the NE Ridge (first two aborted due to very high wind). Expedition/heavy style, but because of our cache we didn't ferry loads again after the first aborted attempt.

 

we had a great time.

2505FOR014A.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Yes 30 days is plenty, that long gives you more time to dick around and acclimate on the surrounding peaks rather than on route. Check out the mini moonflower buttress, its just right up the valley from Kahiltna base. fun day climb.

  • 9 months later...
Posted

Thanks guys for all this info. The photos are superb.

 

The one thing I question is how you get on the ridge proper.

 

From when I was climbing the west butt - it looked avalanche prone to get on the corner of crosson. What's the safest way to get to the main ridge?

 

I remember hearing constant avalanche sound...like a wet slide, kind of like a waterfall...I could have sworn it was comming from Crosson.

Posted

Yea it probably was comming from crosson. The way we did it was to climb to the top of crosson on the south side of the corner that I think you are talking about. People will also use the East side of that corner. Once you are on the top of Crosson stay right on the ridge the rest of the way.

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