dwood Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 Hello, Thinking about doing the full N. Ridge of Stewy, but I'm now wonder if it's feasible from Ingalls creek. With the fires in the Icicle I don't expect the road to Mountaineer's creek to open up anytime soon. Is round tripping it from Ingalls a common approach or even doable for the direct start? How much time do you think it will add if any? Tidbits on other foreseeable obstacles would be appreciated too. Someone said a large cam is fixed in the gendarme. Leave the 4" cam at home or will it see use elsewhere on route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 Dwood i think there was enough beta on the Gendarme... Yes you can approach via Ingalls. Just drop down below the glaciers I would assume. I think it is detailed in the Beckey book. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted August 20, 2001 Share Posted August 20, 2001 The complete north ridge is a long climb and there are plenty of 4" cracks on it. The first or second pitch has a crack that is probably closer to 6" though I believe it flares so that a 4" piece might go in there, and I seem to recall a 3-4" crack on the third or fourth pitch. However, most of the climb is not very steep and the difficulties are generally short in duration so, depending on your comfort with running it out in an exposed location, I bet you could get away without a piece that large. Given the gear that you will probably have with you, however, the extra weight of a single 4" piece wouldn't be all that great and if you were tired by the time you got to the gendarme, you might be glad for it there too (even if somebody hasn't by then figured out how to claim their booty from that pitch). As to other gear recommendations, aside from a "normal" rack, I would advise carrying some VERY long runners. More important would be the consideration of whether or not or how much bivvy gear to bring (I bet most parties do not complete the climb and descent in one day). And you did not solicit this suggestion, but I would add that, in my opinion, the upper portion of the route is far more aesthetic and I would probably not go back to repeat the lower portion but I would gladly do the upper half again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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