Dragontail Peak - Serpentine Ridge

[freak]

dude you gotta check out backbone with the fin direct, its really cool,

why does one book call serpentine arete and one call it a ridge? freakout

[stevenkalinowsk]

I climbed Dragontail Peak's Serpentine Ridge on Sunday. The climb is quite long (12+ pitches) but my partner and I found the hardest part was spending all of Saturday afternoon looking up at the intimidating wall. We got up at 4am, got onto the rock around 6, and summitted just after noon. We are only modestly experienced alpine rock climbers (this was the most complicated looking route that I have climbed), but had no problems following the route. The technical crux of the route is 5.8. The rock in this section is excellent. We found the protection to be very good. The upper half of the face is pretty loose, but I felt the views more than made up for the decreasing quality of the rock.

We used Nelson and Potterfield's guidebook. It seemed pretty accurate. Picking out the route from our campsite by the lake wasn't that easy - a pair of binoculars would be useful.

We descended the snow slopes of the back side of the mountain in running shoes holding sturdy tent stakes for self arrest. This worked fine, but it might have been much more difficult if warm sunny weather hadn't soften the snow.

All in all, I found this to be a great climb. The rock doesn't compare to nearby Prussik Peak, and I probably wouldn't repeat the route unless a friend really wanted to do it, but I had fun and am glad I did it.

 

[goatboy]

Anyone been on this route lately?

I'm curious if any of the recent snowfall has accumulated on the ridge and if ice ax/crampons are recommended for the descent this late in the year.

Also, is it possible to descend to Colchuck Col, or preferable to go over to Asgard? I know what the guidebooks say, but thought I'd check in for any other opinions.

Unless I hear compelling reports otherwise, I'm inclined to take crampons and an ax up the ridge in order to descend the back side to Asgard, but I await any suggestions otherwise.

Thanks much,

Steve

[Cpt.Caveman]

Goat,

I did it with a friend this spring. I remember he had done it before saying he had only rock shoes to descend many years back and vowed not to do that again. Wow must have been epic.

I remember going down the steep snow in late spring and it was usefull to have crampons since they were light. I dont know the current conditions but only assume that they would be steeper and icier now. Since the climbing is mostly easy and all I dont think that carrying that extra weight would hinder you by any means at all.

[freak]

I dont know about conditions right now but Ive done the peak twice and both times it was a good call to bring an Ice axe, for getting to the route and getting off. I would say bring a good axe and leave the crampons at home,,,but I dont know how conditions are right now. nic,,

[Alasdair]

I did the route two weeks ago. I did not take an ice axe or crampons. desending the snow sloap on the other side could be very serious without. It is not that steep but if you fall you may take a ride that has a very unplesant end. I recomend not taking crampons and walking along the ridge down to the SE for a while. There is a walk down with no snow there. It looks a lot further than it is. It should take you about an extra hour but is very enjoyable. Do not try to desend the snow without an axe.

[Walter_Burt]

Alasdair is right. I've done both Backbone and Serpentine from the parking lot, which means descending the snow slopes in the shade. You should assume it will be hard this time of year and the base of the slope is littered with rocks - a very unpleasant landing. The first time I took an ice axe. Last time I took a ski pole and some aluminum 10-pt crampons - this was the better way for me - you can move faster.

[goatboy]

I'm gonna assume all of you folks are talking about de-proaching down to Aasgard (rather than back towards Colchuck?)

[Walter_Burt]

Yup. Never done the Colchuck Gl. descent from Dragontail.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Yep. I have never descended the peak from the other side. I like Walter's idea of ski pole and crampons. That would be a good option......

[Kyle_Flick]

I've descended both ways off Dragontail, i.e. Aasgard and Colchuck. The Colchuck Glacier descent off of Dragontail will take longer as it isn't as direct. If you choose to descend toward Colchuck Col take an ice ax and crampons as there usually is a steep snow slope up to the saddle that leads to the gully that drops you down to the Colchuck-Dragontail Col. The gully down to the Col will be loose dirt and rock, but the glacier will be firm.

[Cpt.Caveman]

Killer that is nice to know Kyle cuz I always thought about the other way...

[goatboy]

Thanks for all the info, folks.

I took crampons and ski poles on N Ridge Stuart a few weeks back and it worked great. Might do something similar on Serpentine . . .

 

[Alasdair]

You definately do not want to go via colchuck right now. It is pretty ugly looking, and mostly blue ice littered with rockfall.

[MountainMan]

My partner and I Climbed Dragontail via Asgaard pass today, 10/06. The snow (or lack thereof) on that glacier is VERY ICY and you would be foolish not to take crampons and an ice-axe. Without crampons, today's conditions would have rendered a successful descent impossible (we had no slings or rope). We had ski poles and aluminum crampons only and were nearly forced to turn around ~200 ft. below the summit (on the ascent). You really need an ice axe .. one slip on that stuff and it's lights out. Also, Colchuck Glacier is bad right now .. I wouldn't touch it.

[This message has been edited by MountainMan (edited 10-06-2001).]