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Posted

I am thinking of doing a traverse around Rainier this summer. Not the wonderland trail, but up hight at about 8-11,000 ft on the glaciers and rocks. I have been around the East side climbing both DC and Emmons to the top.

Does anyone have any suggestions on routes or where to find good routes. I am thinking of going couterclockwise from camp Muir, then across to the Ingraham, etc. Any ideas? are there any unpassable sections?

 

Thanks.

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Posted

Dee Molenaar's classic "The Challenge of Rainier" (1971, and later editions), describes in detail a high altitude traverse done in 1968. The map "Mt Rainier Glacier Travel Guide - Adventures on the High Traverse Routes"(1998) describes several alternative routes. The map is by Stanely Maps, a Division of Mid-State Equipment, Box 880 Mercer Island WA 98040.

 

I own this map, and that is where I came up with the publisher info. I have no idea if it is still produced. I am not willing to part with this, but I could attempt to make a copy at Kinko's.

Posted

expect a shitload more difficulty than you've seen on the "gentle side"...

don't get me wrong though, if you're skilled enough this has to be one of the most spectacular climbing routes on the mountain

Posted

I've read several accounts that described difficulty crossing the Emmons glacier from Little Tahoma to Steamboat Prow. That's one of the big advantages of the Foss/Molenaar route. It starts at the White River campground and ends at Fryingpan Creek, avoiding the Emmons. When we skied the route in 1996, we crossed the Tahoma and Nisqually glaciers lower than he did, to avoid crevasses. Otherwise, we pretty much followed the route in Dee Molenaar's book. It's a beautiful trip.

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