Replacing old bolts - in bad style?

[Blake]

What's the general consensus in regards to replacing manky old bolts that were placed on lead, by rapping down and doing it?

 

Given the following:

1. Old Bolts are crap.

2. They would be replaced with better, longer lasting ones.

3. Total number of bolts will remain the same (at a minimum)

4. Any more bolts than what the FA conservatively feels was absolutely necessary to link-up cracks should NOT be placed, on rap or lead. (ie retro-bolting)

5. This is an ethics/hypothetical question. I'm not eyeing an old bolts or buying a drill.

 

Thanks, keep it civil.

[crazyjizzy]

There is a huge difference between rap-bolting, and maintainence bolting. What you are doing is clearly maintaining the crag. The FA has already made their statement of boldness. It is perfectly legit to replace old crappy bolts with new ones in any style as long as it is legal (no power drill motors in the Wilderness), and does not cause undue impact to the crag or other climbers (ie: a 100HP diesel compressor, a 140'JLG, and 300' of air hose at Index).

 

That is my opinion, now lets wait for my good friend Pope.

[JosephH]

Blake,

 

First, where are you talking about?

 

Second, if you are simply replacing existing bolts then I don't think it matters how you do it, rap or ground up - doing the job right is all that matters.

 

And last, just be aware it's a big pain in the ass in general and doing it right without damage can be quite job. Also are you talking granite or basalt?

 

If you really end up doing this give a shout before you head out and I'll pass on what few tips I have...

[JayB]

Stick to replacing the original bolts, do a good job, and use good hardware and I can't see you getting anything but a positive response.

 

Maybe take Joesph up on the free advice, or have someone else who's done the work before if this is your first time taking a crack at it.

[archenemy]

Hey look! A bolting debate.

[Dru]

how old are the old bolts?

 

the brits say that old bolts should not be replaced - the gradual deterioration of the bolts serves to preserve the difficulty of the route in the face of improved rubber, cams and technique.

 

also one could argue that maybe crappy old bolts in bad places should be replaced by bolts in better positions or maybe not

 

fuck it - just put the via ferrata in.

[lancegranite]

Comon' CJ,

tell us how they used to bolt and clean the climbs at I- town in the old days...

[EWolfe]

I would agree that replacing old/dangerous bolts is fine, especially at anchor points. Care must be taken to enlarge the existing hole, not make new ones.

 

It is also ALWAYS a good idea to check with the First Ascentionist before doing any work on their routes.

 

Erik

[larrythellama]

if an fa has been established on public land then the route belongs to everyone. there is no ownership of routes.

 

people who put up routes with bolts should be the one's intially responsible for their up keep.

[JosephH]

Larry, given I only know two climbers that own cliffs, those two statements would appear to contradict each other in general application...