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Posted

Check out my book, "Summit Routes: Washington's 100 Highest Peaks" for a detailed description of the route via Paradise/Muir Snowfield. There are quite a few crevasses and seracs on the lower Cowlitz Glacier in the area above the ice fall (traverse it at 8,600 ft). Not sure what they will be like this time of year... there hasn't been that much snow.

 

Once you get past that you'll have to traverse the Ingraham Glacier to get over to the Whitman Glacier. That probably won't be too bad, but it's a pretty long way even in good conditions. Then, you've got to ascend the Whitman all the way to 10,500 ft to enter the gully on the left to bypass cliff bands. There could definitely be avalanche potential on this slope (40-45 degrees). I imagine that the last 20 feet of rock to the summit will be seriously exciting when snow/rime/ice plastered. It's a quite exposed gable, with intense exposure on the north (all the way down to the Emmons Glacier at least 500 feet below) and more moderate exposure on the south.

 

If you go, write up a trip report as I want to hear what it is like!

 

--Scott

Posted
This is a TR for Little Tahoma. HOWEVER, it's not recent ---it's from last May---and it's not from the Muir approach. But it's a great read (as are all of Phil's other TR) so take from it what you can. You didn't say whether or not you've been there before, so you may find some useful info here. Have fun! bigdrink.gif

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