TR: Black Peak NE ridge

[priapism]

Went up on Saturday to see if the NE ridge was worthy of it's inclusion in Nelson's second volume, knowing a little bit about the quality of the rock on Black Peak. I guess I would have to say it is, but just barely. The approach was unbelieveably easy, only a couple hours to wing lake. From there, it's a scree slog, with a couple low angle patches of snow, to the notch on the NE ridge. We had axes (as were wearing five-tennies) but didn't need them. The first 500 feet or so (laterally) were pretty ugly, loose 2nd, then 3rd class, either on the crest or just left (east) of it. I was thinking this route was going to blow. Then all of a sudden, the rock became (somewhat) solid, and the exposure excellent. About 3 50m pitches right on the crest, up and over several small gendarmes, still a few loose blocks and boulders pearched here and there. It never felt harder than 5.0-5.2, mostly exposed 4th. Fun pitches. Pretty good gear, I'd say our rack was about the right size, allowing for fairly good length simul-climbing. We took cams 1 each: 1.0, 1.5, 2.0, 2.5, 3.0, three TCU's, four wires (never used) and some slings (bring double length). After the fun pitches, the ridge flattens out abruptly and you can unrope for 10-15 minutes of 3rd to the summit. The descent is loose, but really easy (mostly 2nd) and over quickly. Quite a bit of work for the amount of climbing (I guess what Nelson says), but it is a big peak with great views of Goode (reason enough to do it), and the middle pitches were quite cool. Still can't figure out how the heck the south route made the book, at least late season anyway, probably a lot better in the spring. Looks like we may have squeezed in one of the last ascents before the snow is gonna fly. We watched the weather come in saturday afternoon, completely obscuring Baker by the time we summited at 2. All in all, worth the trouble.

[JuanTwoPunch]

Thank you for this TR. I was going to take my wife up there this summer (Aug.) May do so next year, but it doesn't sound like we should make it a top priority.

 

Cheers,

 

John Sharp

[scot'teryx]

We went up there September 9th and there was ice and snow all over the ledges to get on the route, as it had snowed the night before down to about 6500 feet

 

 

Sergio hanging out near some ice at the base of the ridgeline

[Alex]

thanks, I've been meaning to go climb this and I think I'll give it a shot this weekend..

[goatboy]

I did this route last september in marginal conditions, cloudy and quite windy, over labor day weekend.

 

I am glad to have done it, due to the fact that you get wonderful views of Goode, and that now I will never have to do it again.

 

The rock quality is poor at first, and gets a bit better as you get higher. The climbing is not very challenging, though the exposure and views are great.

 

I agree that the south route just sucks in the fall, though I imagine Nelson included it as an early season route, when it may be much better.

 

In all, it is a very scenic place and fun to be up there, though the climb itself I am unlikely to ever return to.

 

Steve