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Posted (edited)

Chilliwack to Hope - running water with a bit of verglas higher up near Hope. Medusa looks about 1" thick

 

Sumallo Bluffs - mostly snow and hanging icicles. Buszowski/Kippan MIGHT be leadable by this weekend as it had continuous albeit quite thin looking ice.

 

Nepopekum - snowing too hard to see it but based on nearby creeks its probably still got open water

 

Go with the Flow - could be in, -10C at night, -6 c in the daytime.

 

Manning Mixed - buried under 6' new freshiez.

 

fruit.gif

Edited by Dru
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Posted

357mousey.JPG

 

Mousetrap and Better Mousetrap - needs a few more days to form up. About 60% ice and 40% water at the moment.

 

357sumbluffs.JPG

 

Sumallo Bluffs - Landmark Gully on the left, Buszowski/Kippan on the right. Hoping to try climbing this tomorrow. Might be too thin at the crux, we'll see.

 

357sickproj.JPG

 

Detail of unclimbed and unformed ice above the B/K. Maybe a good candidate for bolted mixed route?

 

 

357crunchy.JPG

 

Crunchy Frog - looking a bit unformed at the crux pillar but I'm sure you could climb it if you're a tough guy unlike me.

 

Other routes - no photos -

Anthrax Ripple - couldn't see much ice but maybe I was looking in the wrong gully.

 

The Mess routes - looked mostly in.

 

Medusa, Jet Lag etc. - similar to Mousetrap, mostly forming but not too attractive as leads yet.

 

Jarvis Bluffs - a bunch of icicles but even if you were a shit-hot mixed climber these aren't climbable yet IMHO. Ditto all the unclimbed ice near the Sowaqua exit.

 

Deneau Falls - lots of snow, some ice, running water visible

 

Tailwind - photo was horribly bad or I would post it. Thin ice. Probably not climbable as an ice route BUT if you are a good climber and brought a lot of rock gear and Spectres you might very well be able to climb this as a mixed route since it follows a corner system with good cracks and turf.

 

cool.gif Sorry for huge photos. Hopefully I don't show up to the B/K tomorrow to find 5 parties have beaten me to the ice.

 

The creek crossing to Sumallo Bluffs looked as bad as normal - no log jams have magically formed. I'm planning to cross using hip waders tomorrow....

Posted

I think the Rideout area will be buried under 6 feet of freshiez. You missed it this year. If we get 3 weeks of blue sky weather in a row, you might start thinking about Rideout. I hope you have a snowmobile!

Posted

Also it has been slightly above freezing for most of the week (Monday until last night) in Hope so I wouldn't expect Mousetrap or Cruel Pools to be in.

Posted
I think the Rideout area will be buried under 6 feet of freshiez. You missed it this year. If we get 3 weeks of blue sky weather in a row, you might start thinking about Rideout. I hope you have a snowmobile!

There was nothing to miss, it never happened. Also, the ski in is not that bad. For one, you can usually drive at least SOME of the distance in, especially in spring. A 3 hour ski in, a one hour ski out, and you need a snowmobile confused.gif

Posted
The road is no longer plowed so you will be skiing right from Sunshine Valley which is 10km one way wave.gif

If you can't ski 10km of ROAD in three hours then you are serious suck moon.gif

Posted

it's a flat road so it will take you the same time to go in and go out. at the time the sumallo ice routes were put up you could drive 6km of the 10km on a plowed road. for comparison the phair creek roads require only skiing 6km or so but no one climbs there if the road is not plowed unless they can get a snowmobile in.

Posted
it's a flat road so it will take you the same time to go in and go out. at the time the sumallo ice routes were put up you could drive 6km of the 10km on a plowed road. for comparison the phair creek roads require only skiing 6km or so but no one climbs there if the road is not plowed unless they can get a snowmobile in.

The final 4km into the cirque has a good grade on it: I got back to the truck in 1/2 hr, parked at the 6km mark. Chains will work for the flat bits sometimes and get you further up the road. If you need a sled for 6km of road, either at Phair or Sumallo, then you are a SERIOUS retard. Possible dumbass also wave.gif

Posted

So are you going to ski these 10km in your mountaineering boots and then climb ice in them or are you going to ski in ski boots and carry climbing boots in your pack?

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