Took a big fall today

[Kraken]

I set out with my coworker, john, for Eklutna Canyon at about 930 to climb there for a while. We hadn't climbed together before and decided to get out and fly up a few local falls.

 

A foot of new snow blanketed the trail as we walked down to the falls. We reached, Mad Dog, the first climb on the right side of the canyon. It is a 75 foot tall WI4 with thin curtains and lots of possibilities for mixed sessions.

 

John offered me the lead and I took it. I was climbing leashless with my BD Vipers. It was thin so I brought all 10's and 13's and the same amount of screamers.

 

I got up most of it and was at the near the top, with only probably 3-4 moves to go before I could walk up the rest and top out.

 

There was a big mushroom with a vertical face below it that was about 5 feet high. I swung both tools into the brittle, bulletproof ice and went to pull my body up to resituate my feet.

 

As I pulled up, my left tool made a nasty sound and I knew right away that I was going to take a fall. I started to slowly fall back and I was able to re-sink my right tool into the ice and thought maybe I would be able to hold on. Since I was leashless, I simply ripped right out of my handle.

 

Falling, falling falling...waiting waiting waiting. I knew there was a sloped ledge down below but didn't think I'd hit it. I was really quite calm throughout the fall and just kept waiting for the rope to stretch and stop my fall.

 

Finally it happened after what seemed like a long, long time. "HOLY SHIT!" I said, as I realized I'd stopped. I looked back at John and he was nearly eye to eye with me. I was literally less than 5 feet from the ground. I was able to right myself and touch the wall one time before my foot touched the snow.

 

We did the math and John told me I had taken a fall of 55 feet, but I think it was more like 48-50. I was pumping with adrenaline after that and kept apologizing to John, who kept telling me not to be sorry.

 

We laughed and then I realized I couldn't find my other tool. The one was still in my hand, but we couldn't find the other. It took about an hour but we finally found it and continued to climb.

 

Not bad for my first big lead whipper, eh?

[Dru]

So did the Screamer rip or not?

[Kraken]

yeah Dru, it ripped the screamer. The stubby screw held but the ice all around it was fractured and cracked.

[JoshK]

Yes...out with the details! What piece of pro held? Singles or doubles?

[Kraken]

I had three two screws in and one piece of webbing wrapped around a pillar. It was the third screw that held the fall with a regular ice screamer that ripped out completely.

 

I am beginning to think now that I might have bumped against something now on the way down because my hip feels slightly soar, but nothing big.

 

I don't know what other details to give.

[OlegV]

Hey Clint, don't get yourself killed - save some flesh for the West Rib Glad you are OK.