mwienholt Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 From previous posts most are advocating that one consider a half rope setup instead of twins for versatility. Please provide some clarification to the following questions: 1. With which setup (twin or half) can one leader safely belay two seconds at the same time? 2. Can the seconds jug on their strand? 3. Can a single strand of either be used safely for glacier travel to the base of the route? Thanks for the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Yes, Yes, and Yes, although jugging a super stretchy twin would not be very pleasant. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 jugging a twin line free-hanging would be f'ing terrifying Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwienholt Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 The seconds can each climb on their own strands of 7.7 mm twin? Wow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tomtom Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 FYI: Most Petzl gear (ascenders, etc) is rated down to 8 mm ropes. Many twin ropes are smaller. Is this a problem for you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwienholt Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 Not exactly. I was asking more from a hypothetical standpoint. I figured the ropes were too small to jug on safely. I also didn't know that a second can climb on a single twin. I thought that was just for a half. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhyang Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 The seconds can each climb on their own strands of 7.7 mm twin? Wow! Interesting. The documentation that came with my reversino seems to say that belaying two followers on twins is a bad idea. OK for doubles, but not for twins. Not sure why this is so, or if I interpreted the Petzl heiroglyphics incorrectly. My dual rope setup is rated for double / twin use anyway, so I'm not worried (yet). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwienholt Posted October 11, 2005 Author Share Posted October 11, 2005 What setup do you have? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhyang Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 PMI Verglas 8.1's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cobra_Commander Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 Interesting. The documentation that came with my reversino seems to say that belaying two followers on twins is a bad idea. OK for doubles, but not for twins. Not sure why this is so, or if I interpreted the Petzl heiroglyphics incorrectly. Just remember the internet created a lot of experts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted October 11, 2005 Share Posted October 11, 2005 jugging a twin line free-hanging would be f'ing terrifying Ask castlecrag about this one If you are in a team of two to minimize the terror one can belay the jugger with the other line. Jugging with wear out your line much faster... consider a light lead line combined with a tag line (7-5 mm). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J_Fisher Posted October 12, 2005 Share Posted October 12, 2005 Twins have always struck me as a "worst of all worlds" set up. (Cluster factor of doubles, rope drag of singles, fall force of singles or worse, weakest/stretchiest if using a single strand.) Either do doubles if you want to minimize rope drag and like the redundancy or want to bring up 2 seconds, or do a skinny single with a tag line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted October 13, 2005 Share Posted October 13, 2005 For what it's worth I use a single twin (9mm dry) for glacier travel and easier alpine. And if it seems sketchy in cutting it on rock or more of a chance of a fall, I double it up. Maybe I'm stoopid, OK I know I'm stoopid, but nobody I've talked with thinks this is risky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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