More Twin/Half Rope Questions

[mwienholt]

From previous posts most are advocating that one consider a half rope setup instead of twins for versatility. Please provide some clarification to the following questions:

 

1. With which setup (twin or half) can one leader safely belay two seconds at the same time?

2. Can the seconds jug on their strand?

3. Can a single strand of either be used safely for glacier travel to the base of the route?

 

Thanks for the help!

[catbirdseat]

Yes, Yes, and Yes, although jugging a super stretchy twin would not be very pleasant.

[Cobra_Commander]

jugging a twin line free-hanging would be f'ing terrifying

[mwienholt]

The seconds can each climb on their own strands of 7.7 mm twin? Wow!

[tomtom]

FYI: Most Petzl gear (ascenders, etc) is rated down to 8 mm ropes. Many twin ropes are smaller. Is this a problem for you?

[mwienholt]

Not exactly. I was asking more from a hypothetical standpoint. I figured the ropes were too small to jug on safely. I also didn't know that a second can climb on a single twin. I thought that was just for a half.

[rhyang]

The seconds can each climb on their own strands of 7.7 mm twin? Wow!

 

Interesting. The documentation that came with my reversino seems to say that belaying two followers on twins is a bad idea. OK for doubles, but not for twins. Not sure why this is so, or if I interpreted the Petzl heiroglyphics incorrectly.

 

My dual rope setup is rated for double / twin use anyway, so I'm not worried (yet).

[mwienholt]

What setup do you have?

[rhyang]

PMI Verglas 8.1's

[Cobra_Commander]

Interesting. The documentation that came with my reversino seems to say that belaying two followers on twins is a bad idea. OK for doubles, but not for twins. Not sure why this is so, or if I interpreted the Petzl heiroglyphics incorrectly.

 

Just remember the internet created a lot of experts.

[John Frieh]

jugging a twin line free-hanging would be f'ing terrifying

 

Ask castlecrag about this one

 

If you are in a team of two to minimize the terror one can belay the jugger with the other line. Jugging with wear out your line much faster... consider a light lead line combined with a tag line (7-5 mm).

[J_Fisher]

Twins have always struck me as a "worst of all worlds" set up. (Cluster factor of doubles, rope drag of singles, fall force of singles or worse, weakest/stretchiest if using a single strand.) Either do doubles if you want to minimize rope drag and like the redundancy or want to bring up 2 seconds, or do a skinny single with a tag line.

[plexus]

For what it's worth I use a single twin (9mm dry) for glacier travel and easier alpine. And if it seems sketchy in cutting it on rock or more of a chance of a fall, I double it up. Maybe I'm stoopid, OK I know I'm stoopid, but nobody I've talked with thinks this is risky.