[TR] Grant Peak- Northeast Face 9/27/2005

[tlinn]

Climb: Grant Peak-Northeast Face

 

Date of Climb: 9/27/2005

 

Trip Report:

Nick Elson and I made use of a beautiful Fall weekend by getting out on Grant Peak in the North Cascades near Hope. The full trip report should probably begin at the VOC 80`s party but I will spare those details and just say that neither of us can figure out how the traffic cone got into the back of my parent`s car. My dad was a little shocked, as were we.

My dad was kind enough to drive us up the Berkey Creek logging roads in his 4x4. From there, we stashed our bikes and started walking across the logging cut and up towards the ridges leading to the peak. The peak looked a long ways away, but we made pretty good time as most of the brush was pretty light and we managed to find a few game trails (what Nick calls the "bear superhighway").

We were a bit stressed by the glacier at the bottom of the face as neither of us thought to bring crampons but we relieved that our chosen line had a nice rock buttress leading right to the first pitch.

We descended down the NW? ridge towards our bivy lake. This was the least fun part of the trip as we had to walk, crawl, and slip down steep heather. A nice afternoon snooze, a relazing dinner, and we slid back into our bivy sacks for the night. The climb was 8 rope stretchers in length plus a bit of simul-climbing. Most of the pitches were low fifth class with the most difficult pitch being 5.6 or 5.7. The rock is generally good quality but is pretty mossy down low. It protects best with small tcus.

Our descent was made with mountain bikes down the Berkey Creek road. It was fun coasting into Hope on our mountain bikes and getting a burger at the Triple-O before heading back to my parents and driving back to Vancouver.

 

Thanks Nick

Views along the ridge

 

 

Mt. Hope and Wells Peak

 

The bivy lake

 

Our ascent route...lots of unclimbed rock

 

Nick scrambling

 

Nick on the first pitch

 

one of the heathery lower pitches

 

Me on the sixth pitch

 

Eaton Lake

 

Eaton Peak, Silvertip, Payne, Rideout, etc.

Edited October 10, 2005 by tlinn

[Zoran]

Congratulations on good climb!

It's interesting that there is no lots of reports or pictures about Grant Peak. Even at Bivouac...

Maybe your climb is FA?

Thank you for sharing info about area.

Z

[jordop]

Wicked Ty Thanks for the community service Lottsa turf might be nice in Winter?

[Dru]

Good job Ty and good timing... the logging road is being deactivated to an "impassible by vehicles" standard starting last week

[tlinn]

Thanks guys...yeah, it was quite a bit of fun. I`m not sure I`d like to come all the way in from the Eaton Lake trail though...pretty hard work. That road was already pretty hard to pass I can`t imagine what it`s like now! Krystil says Hi.

[Andrew_R]

Nice work Tyler, too bad we missed the real 80's, leg warmers and Iron Maiden, Fuck yea! looks like a sweet place, good on ya

[hubris]

Sweet Ty! I'll 2nd the real 80's.....but Preist was way better than Maiden!