[TR] Dragontail- Backbone 9/24/2005

[kurthicks]

Climb: Dragontail-Backbone

 

Date of Climb: 9/24/2005

 

Trip Report:

After much debate, Matt (NYC007) and I decided to do Backbone in a day last Saturday. Most of the day consisted of us calling each other "Sally's" and commenting about how we would rather be spooning in the back of my Subaru instead of climbing.

 

Da Route (click for overlay)

 

Matt following the offwidth. This pitch was much easier than expected. We both somewhat enjoyed climbing it! We hauled the packs on this pitch with our 60m rope (recommended).

 

Above the OW, we stayed just left of the crest, eventually coming to this roof. Matt lead up and right into the OW, which took us up to the "down and right 5.8 crack" that Nelson describes. Easier climbing took us to the Fin.

 

Fear the Fin

 

Then climb the Fin. Getting onto the Fin required some trundling onto Matt before we reached the end of the lower ledge--as marked with a fixed forged friend. We climbed the right hand line that Nelson describes. Our belay was located directly above my head in the notch.

 

At the notch, we climbed left of the crest, starting on upright flakes (2-4' tall, very obvious) and continuing on ledges and blocks to the second notch in the ridge. Very little loose rock was encountered. Here we crossed through and out onto a catwalk that took us up easy 5th to the summit scramble. We hit the summit plateau about 30 minutes before dark.

 

A long ways to go. Just above the glacier at dark.

 

We finally got back to the car at 12:50am, completing a 19:40 hour day.

 

Full size pics in my gallery

 

Gear Notes:

the new C4 camalot #5 is NOT large enough to protect the offwidth to the top.

a #2 big bro makes it a little less runout.

Bring ice tools to climb the WI that is forming from the glacier runoff.

 

Approach Notes:

twice in a week

The snow on the approach & descent is easily bypassed. No 'pons necessary.

[colt45]

Awesome! Thanks for the detailed trip report. Backbone has been on my list of routes to avoid because of the horror stories of loose rock up high--it's good to know that this section can be avoided.

[Juan]

Hey Kurt:

 

Other than being slow as hell, you guys did good. Did you see Doug Walker up there?

 

Sharp

[MCash]

Nice work.

[NYC007]

Nice write up Kurt. Good times. We didnt run into Doug on Backbone but there was about 3 parties on Serp.

 

Matt

[mughjie]

How did you guys bypass the snowfield above the pass? We were the ones on Serpentine and came down in the moat on skier's left. I can't say I enjoyed it.

Edited September 27, 2005 by mughjie

[kurthicks]

We did 2 raps off the summit plateau (fixed stations), then descended an easy ledge system to the left that deposited us on the slabs. We stayed generally left, finally walking down flat-ish permanent snow towards the little lake near the pass. Very safe IMO.

 

Did you guys take any pics?

[Juan]

Yeah Kurt -- Julian showed me one picture he took of you with your hand in your shorts. Long day, eh?

 

=;-)

[kurthicks]

your smiley face reminds me of this...

 

edit: as for avoiding the loose rock up high-- just don't go down into the Third Couloir, stay high on the right side on obvious ledges until you hit the notch that has sand/dirt leading up to it.

Edited September 28, 2005 by wazzumountaineer

[mughjie]

Hey John,

 

I just looked at the photo I sent you pixel by pixel and actually he's reaching for the #5 Big Bro (18.4 inches fully extended).

 

Mughjie

[Juan]

Twoshay turtle!

 

Hey Kurt -- could you photoshop in some more tan on my white face?

 

Julian -- sounds like Doug dragged you guys up Serpentine at Mach 3. Fun I'll bet.

 

Juan

[mughjie]

John,

 

Actually, it was relaxed and very enjoyable. Traveling as a threesome is inherently slower but we managed to make it back to the car without head lamps--a moral victory.

 

Mughjie