Baker Slog Route Condition?

[kb1dqh]

Hey all,

 

I'm planning on climbing Baker for the first time the weekend of October 8th, weather permitting. I've been on Rainier and some other peaks in the cascades, but never up north. My pary is prepared as far as gear and cravace/glacier skiils go. Just trying to figure out what we'll encounter. So, here are my questions:

 

1) What are the conditions like right now on Baker?

 

2) Anything out of the ordinary? The route seems fairly non-technical, but is there anything specific that I should know about?

 

3) What is the glacier like? There's a good chance it might now up high by the time I get there. What is the route through the glacier like?

 

Thanks! Jake

[dylan_taylor]

Coleman Deming side is in suprisingly good shape, tho the recent storm brought rain levels above the summit (rinsing away any late-summer snow accum.) The Glacier travel is relatively straight forward, even for october in a drought year. The first 1000' vert above the hogsback camp is predominantly ice. Make sure the 'pons are sharp. Firn line is at about 7800' and slots are easy to get around. One leaning "bridge" still remains between two slots at 8500'. But it is super solid. A bit of bare ice still lurks on the roman wall. Good luck.

-DT

[kb1dqh]

Thanks for the info! How steep is the ice below firn line? Are we talking steep enough for a running belay and ice screws or does it not get steep until the snow where a picket could be set if needed? I'm taking people up who don't have a great amount of ice and crampon experience and would like to minimize the hazard accordingly.

[Alpine_Tom]

I'd expect some bare ice below the roman wall. It's not terribly steep there, but it can be pretty disconcerting, and it's probably prudent to have ice screws and be prepared to use them on the descent.

[Dru]

I'd expect 6" of new snow above 2000m

[chris]

I attempted to lead a group of WWU students up the C-D last weekend. The rain Dylan's referring to created a bullet-proof, ice rink glacier. The storm on Thursday/Friday added a few inches of snow at 6000', but the winds Saturday night scoured the lower glacier clean.

We weren't able to teach decent glacier travel and self-arrests, my assistants weren't keen on trying running belays to try the ridge, and some of the participants were clearly not getting it.

The route looks straightforward though - if you already have glacier travel and cramponing experience, it shouldn't be a problem.

[kb1dqh]

Thanks for the reports all. Two of us are experienced and two of us aren't, so we might hold off. mtnfreak, I think I talked to you on the phone about this... I'm the Willamette guy. I was thinking normal glacier ice, but if it rained and is bullet proof, there might not be worth it. I saw the other thread on the seracs at the base of the glacier. Might think about doing that.

[chris]

Probably not me - I don't answer any phones anywhere except for my cell. And check your PM's - I've sent it to you .

I'd be comfortable short-roping one or two begginners up the slope, but the group size and the skill sets of my assistants didn't permit this. The glacier was completely open and exposed, so route finding was very apparent. But if you expect to use "traditional" glacier travel technique, I'd be very worried - the possibility of a successful team arrest is minute.