Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   02/03/18

      We have upgraded to new forum software as of late last year, and it makes everything here so much better!  It is now much easier to do pretty much anything, including write Trip Reports, sell gear, schedule climbing related events, and more. There is a new reputation system that allows for positive contributors to be recognized,  it is possible to tag content with identifiers, drag and drop in images, and it is much easier to embed multimedia content from Youtube, Vimeo, and more.  In all, the site is much more user friendly, bug free, and feature rich!   Whether you're a new user or a grizzled cascadeclimbers.com veteran, we think you'll love the new forums. Enjoy!
Sign in to follow this  
Kraken

TR: August ice climbing on the Matanuska glacier

Recommended Posts

Date: August 19, 2005

 

Location: Matanuska Glacier...Alaska

 

 

I got a call from a girl from North Carolina named Jess. She had found me from a website like CascadeClimbers.com.

 

She wanted to know if there were any good places to ice climb in August, when she and her friend Tony were coming up here.

 

I told her that the only close place was the Matanuska Glacier. She offered to pay me to guide them around and supply a rope and screws. I readily agreed and we kept in contact for the coming month.

 

I drove to the glacier early on Friday morning, still hungover from the night before, and finally located them.

 

We hiked to the good seracs where I had climbed many times before and set up a top rope. Being as how I was their guide, I felt it was my duty to make sure they had a good time and got to climb the most, so in order to not take up too much time leading, I just toproped for them.

 

7679climbing_012-med.JPG

 

7679climbing_025-med.JPG

 

7679climbing_032-med.JPG

 

We climbed for about 6 hours and they were having a great time. It was really warm outside, around 75-80 degrees, and the glacier felt good with the radient coolness blowing off of it.

 

We continuously checked the anchors I had built to make sure they weren't melting out too much. We climbed in two different areas and did three different routes.

 

This was my first guiding experience and it was really great. We all had a great time, Tony and Jess were great people, and we had fabulous conditions. Tony kept snapping shots of me while I climbed, that was really nice of him.

 

It was quite a treat to get paid $75 to climb ice for 6 hours, I could make a career out of this easily.

 

It felt good to swing my tools after a 5-6 month break.

 

The only bad thing was that I couldn't find my harness that morning as I was scrambling to get ready, so I was forced to use webbing...which made it uncomfortable at times.

 

Other than that, it was a perfect day and a great time.

 

For more pictures, check out my gallery. The ones I posted are the low quality ones. My gallery has the high quality ones shot with my Canon Rebel XT.

 

PICTURES:

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7679

 

hahaha.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The only bad thing was that I couldn't find my harness that morning as I was scrambling to get ready, so I was forced to use webbing...which made it uncomfortable at times.

 

It was quite a treat to get paid $75 to climb ice for 6 hours, I could make a career out of this easily.

 

Quite professional. thumbs_down.gif

 

Be careful about getting paid. It brings on all sorts of legal ramifications (permits, insurance, etc). Especially if someone was to get hurt (I doubt you have a $1,000,000 or higher insurance policy). As for making it a career, don't bet on it. Most guides would be stoked to earn $75/day every day, but it just doesn't work like that even after taking a number of AMGA courses. Usually, you bust your ass 3 months a year and dirtbag the rest.

 

Looks like fun times though.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×