zoroastr Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 (edited) Climb: Sloan Peak-Sloan Glacier - solo day trip. Date of Climb: 8/20/2005 Trip Report: Thought I was going to have to work this morning, but last night my vicious taskmasters at M****soft relented, and, suddenly faced with the prospect of an entire mad weekend to myself, I naturally bolted for the hills. I resolved to get some payback on Sloan Peak's Corkscrew Route, a climb from which Erick Johnson, Rick Peder and I retreated in a previous early-season attempt, owing to deep powder on the scramble section. --Rick, if you see this, I still have your fleece jacket, and you're not getting it back. It's stylish, comfortable, and extremely well-travelled, having visited many interesting summits since you left it in my car two seasons ago... First glimpse of the Sloan Glacier--it was at this point I regretted packing only my 4-point crampons... I didn't shrink this shot much, to show what a mess the Sloan Gl. is right now. There are very few comfortable routes through this nightmare. If you're planning to get the route before the snows fly, don't delay. Approaching the top of the Sloan Glacier and the beginning of the scramble section--actually, there's a surprising amount of hiking left to do on the other side after leaving the snow. Here's a shot of that magnificent climbers' trail. Another shot of the backside climbers' path, approaching the scramble section. Note the rap sling at the top of the tower. The climbing on the tower looked low-5th--memo to self: bring rope and partner to snap kewl tower shots next time! The summit itself was awesome, but the parade route offers only 3rd-class climbing, and precious little of that. The spectacular Sloan Glacier traverse is really the highlight of the route. The morning's tea was served in antique Wedgewood with art deco flying bird design... Gear Notes: I brought: * inadequate, instep crampons--bring real ones. * axe * two Pop-Tarts, 2 bananas. Approach Notes: All clear up to the glacier. Owing to the condition of the Sloan Gl., though, this one's fading fast. Edited August 21, 2005 by zoroastr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 Your TRs are always good reads, but I must say you have an, um, interesting tendency to post pictures of yourself in scantily(sp?) clad spandex outfits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoroastr Posted August 21, 2005 Author Share Posted August 21, 2005 Post deleted by zoroastr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ivan Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 i think josh is just jealous of your manly physique - besides, you're fulfilling the fervent wishes of horny homosexual teenagers everywhere! ...so you got that going for you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 Haha...no man, i was just messin' with ya! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blake Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 I'm with josh, it is a little bit like "SWM seeks belay partner, must climb 5.10 or be an underwear model" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
magellan Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 John, you are one shirtless, solo, crazy, climbing fool! Awesome TR, keep it up man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zoroastr Posted August 22, 2005 Author Share Posted August 22, 2005 hmmm...odd the things some readers choose to focus on...oh well, on my next trip, despite withering heat, I'll make sure I'm wearing at least three insulating layers and bib overalls...that ought to please the censors... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted August 22, 2005 Share Posted August 22, 2005 Please wear down. There is no reason people shouldn't be wearing a layer of down at all times. I think people should wear down when bouldering. It could make ground falls less painful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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