Mt Huntington-Harvard Route TR

[Jedi]

http://www.mtnguide.com/huntington_tripreport.asp

 

Last year, I mentioned that I met some great people from the PNW, while in the Ruth. This spring was no exception. Climbing with Coley and Seth was a joy and would climb with them again if the opportunity presented itself. Of course, the odds of it happening again, as it did this year, seems slim. Coley did a great job with pictures and the TR. Don't forget the slideshow.

A spectacular route indeed!

 

 

 

Jedi

[Chriznitch]

nice

[dbb]

That looks awesome. Nice trip

what time of year is it best to go in?

[Alpinfox]

 

Sweet Sweet SWEET!

 

That looks SO good! except for the "20+ rappels"

 

Thanks for posting that.

[Jedi]

AlpineDave:

We flew last year in mid-April. That area locks in cloud cover like no other spot in the Ruth. We could not land so we opted for the SW Ridge of 11,300 (2003). While we were climbing the SW Ridge of 11,300, Jack Roberts climbed the Harvard. They were the only people that got up it.

This year we flew into the Tok within 3 hours of arriving in Talkeetna (Apr 16th). Then it snowed for 6 days straight. Then the weather was clear for 7.

The 1st couple days were pretty cold at base camp (minus 15 the 1st couple mornings) but like last year and the couple years before that, it really warms up. Almost too warm.

 

Westman and Puryear have spent A LOT of time in that area. I think Joe recommends giving it a shot in mid April through May. I would imagine rock fall would increase as it gets warmer.

The belay at the top of the Dihedral pitch is not the same as when Mark was there a couple years ago. It fell off making for an uncomfortable stance. I attached a picture to my 1st post (I think Seth snapped the photo). That is the view from that belay. I will add an attatch a photo above that shows the dihedral pitch. Coley lead this pitch and I consider it the hardest pitch on the route.

Anyway....I'll never forget aiding my way up the Nose pitch and seeing the van sized boulder floating out away from the West Face and the explosion when it made contact. The glacier below was peppered with granite. I would go earlier in the season.

[Kraken]

nice job man. I saw the slideshow a month or so ago and was impressed. Can't wait to get into the Alaska range...I am really stoked.

 

Coley is damn cool btw!

[layton]

coley fights crime in bellingham when he's not working or mountain biking. you can see him in his saggy spandex outfit on rooftops on a clear night.