Foley Peak beta

[plexus]

It's amazing how flipping through the Beckey Guide in a small cafe in Oaxaca, Mexico makes you miss the mountains. I am surrounded by mountains on pretty much all sides without a friggin rock to climb, at least nothing bigger than me.

But while my purusing through the Volume 3 guide, I came across Foley Peak once more in the Cheam Range. Why the fascination? Because it had to have been about the fifth time I have flipped the book open and came to that mountain.

So here is my question, is it worth it? South Route or other? Can you still get in by the roads? I know I have until the end of May in Mexico but hell, I'm an American, I want everything now (Goddamn fast food, high-speed connections and drive-thru espresso stands, you have erroded my patience).

Thanks for the help.

[Dru]

Day trip it from the new logging road that runs to just below WilliamsonLake. welch is a better peak. see www.bivouac.com for more info. look out for avalanches in May. oh yes, this question should be in "British Columbia" not "North cascades" because our Cascades are north of nothing much...

[plexus]

Thanks for the link Dru, read the TR and a couple about Welch Peak. Be interesting to try out when I return.

Sorry about the error of placement, didn't even see the B.C. category.

Got good news yesterday from a couple of locals, apparently the mountain north of OAxaca, which I can see every day from my courtyard has climbing. Only 20 minutes away by car apparently, will have to check it out next week in the midst of work.

[Don_Serl]

...and, approaching from the north via jones lake (very impressive cirque) you might want to consider the NW ridge; gain it from the W (foley glacier side) - better than it sounds in the guide (p150).

the E face above lucky four glacier (photo p151) also wld be good in late spring.

enjoy, cheers, don

[Dru]

oh and the photo in Beckey guide is mislabelled, I think it says NW when it should say NE.

can we get an administrator to move this over to the BC conditions section???

[mattp]

Dru - you are correct that these peaks are in BC, but I believe the North Cascades are the North Cascades, regardless of which side of the border you are on, so it makes sense to me to have a route report on Mount Rahm (almost entirely in Canada and approached from the north) in the same section as Mount Spickard. Don't be selfish -you guys have plenty of great mountains up there.

[Dru]

I think if you approach from BC to climb it, that makes it a "BC peak". That would include Foley, Slesse, Bear , Redoubt, Spickard, Hozomeen (mostly) - and Tomyhoi 50% of the time.

[nolanr]

What about American Border Peak and Canadian Border Peak? It's a little confusing, you know.

[Dru]

yeah so we will annex WA, that will make things easier, and with the exchange rate you guys all become millionaires.

[nolanr]

Well OR might get a little pissed if you annex the whole state, 'cuz anything south of Olympia doesn't really count as WA anymore, it's already been annexed to OR. You can have the northern half maybe. What the hell am I saying? Don't you know Canada is just the attic for the good 'ol U S of A, where we store some extra stuff.

[Dru]

if it is annexed by OR how come you have to pay sales tax?

[nolanr]

Okay, maybe it hasn't been officially annexed. But my 2 roommates who are Seattle born and raised think the world is flat and if you go south of Olympia you will fall off the planet, so at least as far as they're concerned anything below the Sound might as well be OR. Seems to be prevailing attitude among Seattleites.

I was born in OR and spent most of my growing up years on the WA side of the Columbia east of Portland, so I'm a little (sniff, sniff) sensitive about the subject.

[ 02-10-2002: Message edited by: nolanr ]