Freeway (Squamish) runouts?

[colt45]

Does anyone know how run-out the 10a R corner (standard finish) on Freeway is, and also just how far run-out on 5.9/5.10 one might be on the Express Lane variation?...

[Dru]

If you can't free solo 10a why would you climb Freeway?

[layton]

watch some guy EPIC trying to aid the 10th pitch while 2nding...took hours!!!! poor poor belayer.

[Matt_Anderson]

I don't remember it being a corner, but I do remember some 5.9 or 5.10 face towards the end that had some relatively dramatic runouts. There was a big wide corner to the right of it that I was eyeing wistfully (but I ddin't have any big gear either.

 

I don't know if it was exhaustion or just that it was quite run out, but I led all the other pitches and had no problems, except a slip in one wet section. Taht was the only pitch that gave me pause.

[Jens]

is the runout with a safe but big air if you fall (OK)

0r land on a ledge if you bail?

 

this one is on my list for this sept. hopefully

[colt45]

hey Matt, I saw you posted a few years back that you did the Express Lane finish--I assume that's what you're referring to. In the McLane photo, its second-to-last pitch seems to end near a corner (the route's original finish climbs a different corner, and the topo calls that pitch 10a R).

 

In addition to whether the fall is safe, I was wondering just how big the corner is--eg would a #3.5 camalot do the trick or it it just too wide to be a reasonable protection option?

[Matt_Anderson]

Thanks for the reminder - I said:

"you've got ankle breaker and/or reaaaally long fall potential on 5.10 climbing" From that I think I meant that there was a ledge that I was worried about, but not sure if I would hit (either because it may have been possible to push out past it or because I wasn't sure if I would fall that far.).

Re: which finish I was on/which pitch I'm talking about - I don't remember, but will try to take a look at the guide boodk to refresh my recollection. I know the pitch that I was on was a face or arete, defeinitely not a dihedral. The pitch I was looking at was a dihedral. I'd guess you'd need a #4 or 5 camalot for it, but it's been a long time. . .

[colt45]

For anyone interested, I looked at a different route description (in Bourdon's Squamish Select guide) and it looks like the wide corner to the right of the second-to-last pitch of Express Lane is McLane's "10a R dihedral" for the original finish...Bourdon doesn't give it an R, but he does say that it's a 10a squeeze chimney (which could certainly be unprotected!)

[Matt_Anderson]

That sounds about right, so maybe a 5 or 6 camalot . . .

Edited August 10, 2005 by Matt_Anderson

[JesseH]

Freeway 10a finish second to last pitch is a breeze - seriously. Literally it seems more like 5.8 after you get through the lower 5-ll pitches. As for run outs I think you have about a 10' section of unprotectable climbing where you would probably deck if you really blew it but there are lots of good feet around and you can ow through it pretty well. Don't bring anything bigger than a 3" cam for the route and only one if you can manage it. The only place for a 3.5 is the daylight crack and that seems about 5.9 where it is wide - unless you have really small hands? I found that the grey .4 camalot is about the only cam that I am really psyched on pulling the roof pitch out of the cave with. It seems to work better than tcus cause it is a bit flaring. As for the 11a to get into the cave... either bring a lot of gear and slings or be prepared for some solid run outs on that pitch at the exit. I would rate it more like 5-10bc at the top rather than 10d probably cause of the length of the pitch and the runout. As for the rack I think 2-3 of each the blue and yellow tcu and doubles to no. 2 camalots with a 3 is a good rack. If you know the route and are solid around the grade one number two is fine and more smaller gear helps.

[lancegranite]

Hamish's little dog did not seem to have a problem with the runout...

[Matt_Anderson]

Mebbe's Jesse's right and I just bonked . . . I do know the rest of the route seemed pretty easy, but I was leading all day, and the route was about all that my conditioning at the time could take, so exchaustion could have started fucking w/ my head.

 

Mebbe we're talking about a dif't pitch . . .

[JesseH]

It has seemed to me that there has been alot of aprehension out there about going for freeway. When I first tried it it was at the absolute limit of all of my abilities at the time and seemed scary. A buddy I met in Yosemite and I went for it, fell a few times but made it to the top and learned a ton about harder climbing. Looking back I think it is kinda a break through route so to say and really shouldn't be missed. The route challenges your mind, your ability, and your notions as to what you are capable of. Personally I think it is the best route around pitch for pitch and probably the climb I have learned the most from. To anyone entertaining the idea, go for it, it is so worth it-