Mt. Shuksan summit pyramid- how difficult is it?

[plark42]

Hello CC'ers-

 

I am planning a trip with a few buddies to climb mt. Shuksan via the Sulphide glacier. I wanted to know

1) what the summit scramble is like (difficulty, exposure, etc)

and 2) what condition the glacier is in right now..

 

I have heard all sorts of different opinions about the summit scramble from easy class 3 gully to difficult sections of exposed low grade class 5 moves.

 

Any pictures or info would be extremely helpful

 

Thanks!!

[Dru]

It's an easy class 3 gully.

[Snafflehunter]

At most, it's class 4. You can get into some class 5 if off route, but if you stay in the gully it's never more than class 4.

 

Trip report here:

http://www.sverdina.com/shuksan/shuksan5.htm

 

Grainy image here:

[plark42]

Thanks... keep 'em coming..

[Alpinfox]

If you try to climb it really early season (like say, May) it is VERY steep snow. Totally shut my partner and I down after we had no problems on the North Face. I haven't been up there when it's dry rock.

 

BTW: It's not necessary to post the same question in both the NC forum and the CB forum.

[layton]

yeah i had to guide that fucker in april!

screw that bullshit, i herded em to camp and said avy conditions were bad...waited...and got my measely $150. No way would i get paid that to herd folks up in winter with absolutely no experience.

 

that said, super easy in summer. no problem. do it, thousands of other have!

[JoshK]

If you try to climb it really early season (like say, May) it is VERY steep snow. Totally shut my partner and I down after we had no problems on the North Face. I haven't been up there when it's dry rock.

 

BTW: It's not necessary to post the same question in both the NC forum and the CB forum.

 

Yeah, if you enjoy steep snow climbing, it was definitely steep in May when I did it. Perfect ass neve, and actually a very cool (and spicy) snow chimney to get on to the summit proper. That was one of the few snow pitches I have protected. It was fun tho!

[Juan]

4th class up the middle or climber's left; low fifth if you take the right skyline. When we did it last, via Fisher Chimneys last Aug., I stayed right behind my wife and we used no rope. If someone is above you, consider a different line or be diligent about looking and listening.

 

Good luck,

 

John Sharp