[TR] Mt. Slesse- Northeast Buttress 7/24/2005

[Winter]

Climb: Mt. Slesse-Northeast Buttress

 

Date of Climb: 7/24/2005

 

Trip Report:

Drew Hansen and I climbed the NE Buttress on Sunday and Monday. The pocket glacier is gone, and the prop cairn is by far the best approach to the entrance gully. We left the car at 5 am at the first washout and topped out at 9:30 pm. We bivvied on top and spent the next day mired in the hell of the crossover descent. Avoid.

 

There is some snow left above the first step. That's it until the summit. There is a substantial snow patch left on the summit. Made for a perfect bivy. May post some measly pictures when we get back from the next outing.

 

Gear Notes:

No axe and spikes, bivy bag no sack

 

Approach Notes:

Go from the prop cairn unless you want the full ridge

[layton]

Nice work guys! Fun route, shitty descent anyway you go.

[Dru]

Was the road from Slesse Memorial to Prop Cairn still a jungle or did it magically get pruned in the last week or so?

[ivan]

nice! that or bear's next on my list...

[Winter]

Was the road from Slesse Memorial to Prop Cairn still a jungle or did it magically get pruned in the last week or so?

 

Uhh, well let's just say that with morning dew on the bush, we were dripping wet by the time we broke out of the jungle.

[Dru]

PS Moderators should move this to the BC/Canada Forum

[Adventurewagen]

Nice Job. Peter, Jesse and I made the climb Saturday. Started at 3am and hit the drop off point by 9pm. Our legs were trashed from running the descent.

 

The pocket glacier was still there on Saturday the 23rd and was scary as hell! A house size chunk broke while we were gearing up on the slab outside the fallzone of the glacier but it was in the fog that day so we went a running not knowing exactly if it was rock fall or glacier. Then we made the crazy mad dash across the wet slab after it cleared and after watching a nice car size piece slide down. Then just below the crossover pitch we all watched a chuck about 15ft deep the width of what was left (maybe 150-200ft wide)fall and slide. Did you guys here that one? We kept watching for you guys and were really hoping nobody was in its way when it went, but we didn't see anyone after us.

 

Super climb though!

 

I sure wish it had been gone saturday, but it did give us all a good reality check.

[Adventurewagen]

Was the road from Slesse Memorial to Prop Cairn still a jungle or did it magically get pruned in the last week or so?

 

Uhh, well let's just say that with morning dew on the bush, we were dripping wet by the time we broke out of the jungle.

 

Definately. It was jungle from the river for a while, then pruned, then jungle, then bushy. Either way two pair of socks were nice to have cause we were super wet!