[TR] Mount Maude- North Face 7/24/2005

[catbirdseat]

Climb: Mount Maude-North Face

 

Date of Climb: 7/24/2005

 

Trip Report:

Richard Conner (waterboy) and I did this climb Sunday, with support from his wife Leigh and dog Boady. A third climber bailed at the last minute.

 

After a bivy at the Phelps Creek TH on Saturday night, we departed at 4 am. Leigh and Body headed up to the basin at 7 am.

We reached the col between Seven-Fingered Jack and Mt. Maude at 8:30 am. Roped up for the traverse. Protected a couple of sections with gear placements on running belay. Traverse is 3rd class with lots of exposure in place, some snow, but mostly rock.

 

On route at 10:30 am at about 7,500 ft elevation. Condition is mostly alpine ice, essentially very hard snow. We did cross one section of very old, dirty, glacial ice. This stuff is practically bullet proof. On the ascent we used running belays the entire way, with usually only one piece between us. The climb was done in two long blocks and one short. By taking advantage of occasional nut placements, we were able to conserve our snow pro and extend the pitches. Ice conditions were close to ideal, especially near the top where it reached about 45-50 degrees. There was only minor rock fall, most of which funnels down the center of the ice. We stayed to the right of it at first and then to the left.

 

The summit was reached at about 1:30 pm. Decent was via the South Ridge, except we chose a variation that went down a gully system to the notch. It was loose and unpleasant and not to be recommended over the standard scramble route. On the traverse back to LeRoy Basin we had to cross a mud gully that was unusually hard to cross, steep unstable dirt and rock on the sides. It is easier to cross below the usual crossing point.

 

Reached LeRoy Basin 4 pm, Phelps Creek, 5 pm, TH at 6 pm.

 

Gear Notes:

37 x 8.5 mm rope, set of nuts, pink, red, blue tricams (used only pink), #3 LoweBall (used twice), 3 pickets, 2 flukes, 1 ice axe and 1 ice tool, two-way radios for communication with support crew.

 

Might have used one ice screw had we brought one. The aluminum crampons I brought were fine, but I took them on an off to avoid walking on rock in them.

 

 

Approach Notes:

Just a few blow downs on LeRoy Basin Trail.

 

I forgot to mention the wildflowers were really pretty and we saw many colorful butterflies at the summit.

 

[Toast]

Nice job guys!

[catbirdseat]

I see you have a good excuse for not joining us- East Ridge of Forbidden!

[Alex]

On the traverse back to LeRoy Basin we had to cross a mud gully that was unusually hard to cross, steep unstable dirt and rock on the sides. It is easier to cross below the usual crossing point.

 

I think that trench must have been caused by an earlier avalanche then lots of meltwater coming down from that cliff band. When I crossed it a couple weeks ago I was totally gripped!

[catbirdseat]

Bump. I added some pictures.

[savaiusini]

Nice. Sounds like it's melted-out a ton since we skied it on 7/4/05. When you were there, was the summit infested with ladybugs? Or had they moved on since there were no more cornices to send down on people?

Are you talking about this mud gully?:

[Snafflehunter]

...On route at 10:30 pm at about 7,500 ft elevation...

 

...The summit was reached at about 1:30 pm...

 

I'm guessing you meant On route at 10:30AM, otherwise that would be one long 1,500' climb!

 

Apparently this was too obscene the first-go-round, as the moderators deleted it. This is obviously an error in the TR, and I'm not making fun of it so get over yourself moderators.

[catbirdseat]

...On route at 10:30 pm at about 7,500 ft elevation...

 

...The summit was reached at about 1:30 pm...

 

I'm guessing you meant On route at 10:30AM, otherwise that would be one long 1,500' climb!

 

Apparently this was too obscene the first-go-round, as the moderators deleted it. This is obviously an error in the TR, and I'm not making fun of it so get over yourself moderators.

Okay, aready I fixed my mistake.

I never saw whatever smart alecky comment you may have made.

Sounds like it's melted-out a ton since we skied it on 7/4/05. When you were there, was the summit infested with ladybugs? Or had they moved on since there were no more cornices to send down on people?

Are you talking about this mud gully?:

Yep, that's the one, except that you were standing on at least ten feet of snow, most of which is gone now.

 

No ladybugs, just butterflies. There wasn't much cornice left. Thankfully, no goats around to kick rocks, either, although we followed goat tracks on the traverse.