robertm Posted July 19, 2005 Posted July 19, 2005 (edited) Climb: Redoubt-NE Face Date of Climb: 7/17/2005 Trip Report: Climbers: RobertM, MVS, Der Wanderer From Der Wanderer... Trip Report: MVS, RobertM, and I went in and tackled the face over the usual three days. We hiked all the way to Ouzel Lake on day 1 arriving in about 5.5 hours...pretty stiff approach! We crossed the Depot Glacier from the west about two thirds of the way up. Crossing was fine...looked even more crevasse free higher. Down low (which is clearly visible from the valley below) is very broken. There were some short steep sections of icy snow to reach the base of the ice apron. There are good belays in 'shrunds along the way. The conditions were a bit sloppy in places; we ended up going straight up the middle and hugging the ice on the right for periodic ice screw placements, pickets were useless in long sections, but good at belays. The traverse above the apron was tedious and slow, crossing from snow to rock and back. The final steep snow face was pretty easy - more deep kick stepping with better snow conditions up high. The final scramble is pretty exposed but solid. We lounged on the summit for a while (30-45 minutes). The descent wasn't all that bad, mostly just slipping on scree and talus and plunge stepping. We returned via the Redoubt Glacier which was easy. We were back at camp about 14 hours after leaving (5am). Go 'n get it soon. Gear Notes: light rack: 3 ice screws, 3 pickets, 3 hexes, set of nuts, 3-4 cams varied widths, lots of slings. Approach Notes: Depot Creek was overflowing in spots and we got sprayed good on the slabs in front of the falls. The wet slaps were slick as ice in places (I wore plastic boots) but the holds were all there - kinda hard to take your time while getting pelted by cold water though. The ascent up the falls is steep and tiring. When arriving at the campsites in the bogs at the top of the falls, cut directly across in a beeline to get to the opposite side of the valley to avoid the marshes. There's a nice trail (hard to follow in spots) right on the edge that will take you to a long moraine slog up to the lake. We thought about camping under the face but didn't want to fool with crossing numerous streams and the West Depot Glacier looked broken. Gear Notes: a couple of pickets small rock rack full shank boots crampons hammer and axe Approach Notes: good trail via depot creek Edited July 19, 2005 by robertm Quote
Dru Posted July 19, 2005 Posted July 19, 2005 how about some words to go with the pretty pictures? Quote
robertm Posted July 19, 2005 Author Posted July 19, 2005 done... only for you Drew... since you were kind enough to offer us beta. We did beat your camp to summit time. Quote
JoshK Posted July 19, 2005 Posted July 19, 2005 Sweet climb guys. I am really hoping to get into that area soon. That looks like the climb to do. You say to go get it soon...think it will be shit on a stick in early August? Also, I don't see Ouzel lake on the map below the Depot glacier. Is it a new lake exposed from glacier melting or is it unnamed on the map? -josh Quote
robertm Posted July 19, 2005 Author Posted July 19, 2005 it is actually further up the valley under the redoubt glacier... pretty small. the advantage of camping there is that you can descend the easy route via south side and you are at camp pretty quick (coupla hours +) August would be challenging as there might be disconnections at the schrunds... I would never say 'out' as there are many that are 'harder' than me but I would think it would be much more difficult. Quote
Juan Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 Way to go guys. Your pictures have bumped this route from being in my top 20 to maybe the top 12. Michael: Glad to see you back in action after the twins arrival. Sharp Quote
Dru Posted July 20, 2005 Posted July 20, 2005 done... only for you Drew... since you were kind enough to offer us beta. We did beat your camp to summit time. well you could be a wheelchair-bound paraplegic slug and still beat our time up. the soul was caged on that one Quote
mvs Posted August 2, 2005 Posted August 2, 2005 I made a 7 minute "music video" of climbing video from the trip. It is good fun. The music is "techno" so if you would rather hear "The Mamas and the Poppas" or something it might be annoying. I am embarassed to say it is 20 MB, but I couldn't stand an encoding less than that. Perhaps best to download it completely and watch with headphones (high quality sound, 320x240 video). Enjoy if ye like! click here Quote
robertm Posted August 2, 2005 Author Posted August 2, 2005 Great video... I am sad to say that I shot mostly unusable footage and was properly schooled and lectured on our latest Torment-Forbidden outing. I am now ready to take a steady hand at the rudder of the camera... give me another chance! Quote
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