Cpt.Caveman Posted August 26, 2001 Posted August 26, 2001 Lichtenberg Mountain West Face 5.9+ Saturday afternoon James Nakagami, "Danimal" Capellini, and I climbed the west face. It sits just above Lake Valhalla a short walk from Stonebrook Trailhead (1 hour) and easier walk than Snow Creek Wall. We were inspired that there were no routes that went directly up the steep face. Dan and I had seen the face before but never gave it much thought but it was mainly James' idea. I thought it would only reveal 2 pitches but it turned out much longer than we thought. We started up the talus and across to the right side of the wall just to the left of an obvious grass filled gully. There we went up a blocky overhang 5.7 moving left and up ramps with bushes for 80 ft to a belay with a large "tombstone" rock at the base of a 3 inch crack. From there we went up the 3 inch crack to a stance where the face climbing begins with awkward pinching and small stoppers for pro 5.8+ up to a grassy ledge 100ft. The first two pitches can be combined as one. Then we moved up a small finger crack with some face holds 5.9+ and then left to some ramps and then past a dead snag move left more and then up to striking pillar just small enough for a person to stand on (25ft tall) that has a 4 inch crack on the left side. Climb and once gaining the top of the pillar step left into a finger crack and up to a small stance. From there move left 30 feet or so to a belay at a ledge just beneath a large overhang 200ft. The next pitch is up a ramp around the left side of the belay traversing to a wide crack with a wild flake. Climb the wide crack avoiding the seam in the corner just to the left of it. Move up ramps and left to a belay just below a fierce looking short finger crack 100ft 5.8. From here you can escape left but we continued up to the right of the finger crack 5.9 and then back left to the ridge which we followed to the summit mostly 4th class 200ft. There are more lines to be had especially up the white headwall we dubbed "Idaho" due to its resemblance to the shape of the state of Idaho. The rock is granite and wall varies from 300 - 500+ feet in areas. Descend down a 3rd class gully to the south of the summit. We built cairns at each of our belays. -Cpt Quote
Peter_Puget Posted August 27, 2001 Posted August 27, 2001 Good report. That peak has been on my "check out" list for a decade and I have been too lazy to check it out. In fact about a month ago from another nearby peak I was checking it out thinking someday. Some nearby granite I have climbed on was quite featured as in knobs dikes and such. What was the granite like? Post some pics! Now that you've beat me to it I'll have to put a "sanction" out on you! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted August 27, 2001 Author Posted August 27, 2001 Unfortunately I did not take any photos as I normally do. James had a camera but I don't often see him. If I do get some I will ask my friend Mike Adamson to put them on his alpinelite.com where I may or may not post a topo in the future.. I can say that the Idaho Headwall is a definite checkout spot for future routes as I think it will reveal the best of them. THe rock sucks up pro very well and the ledges tend to be littered with loose rock but other than that it is all good. We used no fixed hardware and I dont think it is needed for much of anything. Dan lives way closer than me and I think is already planning future assaults on it. I personally liked the steepness of the climbing. -Cpt [This message has been edited by Cpt.Caveman (edited 08-27-2001).] Quote
haireball Posted August 28, 2001 Posted August 28, 2001 actually, that face is not free of routes - just free of lotsa reports. Paul Christiansen claimed to have put up a route on this face back in the 70's, but that's as much as I know...Yoder may know something about it... Christiansen's route was reported to be "5.10". Anybody else know? Quote
Lambone Posted August 28, 2001 Posted August 28, 2001 Nice Captin, you be gettin' some!!! Hey, save me the trouble of looking it up and tell me where it is??? Just the general vicinity will do. Just curious... I figure that its not in the Enchantments! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 4, 2002 Author Posted January 4, 2002 Report in more detail but not quite finished. Spray- http://www.alpinelite.com/Lberg.htm Quote
Dru Posted January 4, 2002 Posted January 4, 2002 "we built cairns at every belay" - what, like you took a dump or what? follow the feces fossils? Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted January 4, 2002 Author Posted January 4, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Dru: "we built cairns at every belay" - what, like you took a dump or what? follow the feces fossils? Yes look for the dook ! I dropped a coil on every ledge! Quote
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