[TR] Middle Sister- Hayden / North Ridge 6/12/2005

[dajah5]

Climb: Middle Sister-Hayden / North Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 6/12/2005

 

Trip Report:

Here's my fatigued attempt at a trip report this morning.... it beats workin'.

 

Rainier was rained out so at the last minute John and I went further south to the Middle Sister where the weather was supposed to be better. Left PDX at 4:pm on Sat afternoon 6/11. We had pouring rain all the way

to the Santiam Pass and then it dried out somewhat after we got into Sisters. The storms were no doubt still raging in the valley. We set up camp at Pole Creek Trailhead, ate some beef stew, drank a beer, and

went to sleep to the sound of rain on our tent. We awoke at 3:am to bright stars, packed up our stuff, and hit the trail at 4:am. There was about 4 miles of established trail leading up to a supposed climbers trail. We found something that was close enough to a climbers trail and

we took that to the timberline where the snow started. We benefited from a massive 12 person MA-zama team to establish a trail through the snow reminiscent of a buffalo stampede up to the toe of the Hayden

Glacier. Once we passed them at the toe of the Hayden we were on our own so we took turns breaking trail on an obvious ridge up to Prouty Peak. The snow was soft and deep on the ridge which made for s l o w going but added to the experience. There was a thick blanket of low

clouds to the west, the wind was whipping ice crystals in our faces, and it was friggen cold - classic stuff. We made it to the saddle of Prouty Peak and the north ridge of Middle Sister maybe around ~10:30 am.

 

Once on the North Ridge the snow was firm and windblown. Never being up there before and not having the benefit of following any footsteps for an established route, we just headed straight up. The slope was a consistent ~30 to 35 degrees with a LONG runout given the slick conditions. We encountered a pretty steep pitch about midway up that

looked a little hairy so decided to rope up and use some pro. I led the pitch of probably ~100 feet of about 45 to 50 degrees, threw in 2 pickets on the way, and then belayed John up to a little step - POWNED! This relative noob was pumped after executing that one. We worked our

way toward what we were convinced was a false summit. We truly believed we would encounter a "3rd class scramble" and never let that thought go until we actually reached the summit in disbelief having not set foot on

a rock. Anyway we topped out 8 hours after our start time and stood there in awe at the sweet views and the bluebird day we had chosen to climb. We had the peak all to ourselves and not another person summited before or after us. It's a good day when you get a Cascade peak all to

yourself. From above we saw the Mazama group turn around at the saddle for whatever reason (a climbing club on a 3 day trip and no summit on a clear day - good grief).

 

Getting down was another matter but at least the wind decided to give us a break. We descended a different way and we were approached the steep part from more of a traverse perspective. John put in a picket after

some profanity and crept past it trying to get some kind of footing on the loose granular ice. He worked like a dog kicking in two steps, ended his effort with a few more words of profanity, and then backed off. We decided to try to get down another way admitting that was

probably not the best choice of routes. I belayed John down an alternate steep pitch and he placed pickets on his way down to protect my descent. From there it was the standard schlog back to the car. We stayed roped on the glacier since it warmed up and it was getting late

in the day. It took 12.5 hours round trip car to car. We peeled the packs off our taco-like backs, drank a beer, and headed into town for some pizza. We were back home by 9:pm Sunday night. I thoroughly enjoyed the solitude of this one one and feel lucky to have hit the weather window.

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Gear: 2 pickets and a rope. A second tool or bigger balls would have been nice in lieu of the rope and pro for faster moving.

[barjor]

Nice job avoiding the crowds and making it back safe.

[rbw1966]

Nice TR. Got pics?

[sweatinoutliquor]

My girlfriend and I ran into a twosome heading up that way on Sunday, was that you? We were heading out early after a hike up to camp lake. Smallish dog with us named Bella that ran up to you? Anyway, sounds like a long day, glad to hear that it went okay! Pics pics pics!?

[dajah5]

Yes got pics, will work on those. It wasn't us that you saw nor did we ever see a pair of other climbers...hmmm

Edited June 14, 2005 by dajah5

[dajah5]

lets see if I can get this to work

 

http://community.webshots.com/album/369441560GuXemJ

Edited June 14, 2005 by dajah5

[sweatinoutliquor]

I didn't think so... They had a later start than you guys, but I thought I would ask anyway!

[jlag]

Where did you encounter 45+ degree slopes on the N. Ridge? I've been up there a fair bit and haven't seen anything like that. How far off the ridge were you? I agree that run-out can be a bit un-nerving when it's icy/windy.

[dajah5]

Fair question, we were surprised as well. We stayed pretty true to the east side of the north ridge. To avoid the runout that would shoot you off the east face we veered to the west a tad. We encouted the pitch in question about ~100 yards up from the saddle. I've seen plenty of 35 degree stuff and this was significantly more, enough to force us out of the standard "cane" postion. I think if we veered further west earlier on we would have avoided it but we didn't care for the traverse at that point.