[TR] Robinson Mtn- North Couloir 6/4/2005

[curtveld]

Climb: Robinson Mtn-North Couloir

 

Date of Climb: 6/4/2005

 

Trip Report:

Last weekend was approaching and the unstable weather and low freezing levels were not budging. Our list of possible targets, primarily alpine rock climbs, was looking like little more than a bunch of places to shiver on dripping rock or bail off via multiple rappels in the rain. After many successful westside-cloud-fleeing adventures over the years, Andy and I knew what was needed: something east of the crest that would offer some technical challenge, but would not be vulnerable to a bit of rain. The North Couloir of Robinson gave us that and more.

 

Although Robinson is just a few miles from the Hart’s Pass road, the north face is remarkably remote. From our camp about four miles up the Robinson Creek trail, we continued another two at first light. A bit beyond “Porcupine Camp” (and the last visible human tracks until the summit) we struck off-trail for the invigorating 2000’ hump up to the Robinson-Devil’s Mountain saddle, where we got our first decent look at of Robinson.

 

 

Impressive north face, but no couloir in sight. Fred’s minimal route description would not have kept me going if I hadn’t seen the fantastic photo of the north exposure in Goldman’s “75 Scrambles in Washington”. But would the couloir have continuous snow, given the winter’s pathetic snowpack? The morning was still young (~8), so we dropped over the ridge and traversed eastward across numerous snowfields, one with glissade tracks made by a bear. Once around the central rock lump, we got our first glimpse of the ribbon of snow shooting up to the summit ridge.

 

 

All our questions were answered….or were they? Dang, that thing looked kind of steep in the morning shadows. And how would we get around that cornice at the top? Maybe we should have brought a rope after all. It wasn’t looking all that desperate, just a little more daunting than the warm-up snow climb I was expecting. After all, the crux of Beckey’s three-sentence route description reads: “moderately steep and narrow”. By then it was about 10 and the sun was rapidly coming over the hill, so we humped up the base for a bite and some final inspection. Didn’t look tooooo bad, so we soon strapped on the helmets and crampons, and went for a closer look.

 

Climbing the fan, we confirmed that the surface sloughs from the previous afternoon had been harmless. But as the snow steepened to 35 degrees, we noticed occasional pebbles whizzing by. What if the sun that was creeping into the couloir started kicking off larger blocks? If things got nasty, we could always down climb for our lives - not a terribly reassuring option from halfway or farther up, but an option nonetheless. Once into the couloir, we saw the couloir would be fairly steep (~40-50 degrees, it turned out), but not desperate. The whizzers were generally tracking down the middle, so we threaded a path along the left side. The growing exposure distracted us from our burning lungs and calves as we punched up the firm neve. Snow conditions were perfect for front-pointing but you could still bust your axe through the crust whenever you wanted a little security. And thankfully, the whizzers tapered off as we approached the top, after about an hour of climbing.

 

 

From the top of the couloir, it was a brief scramble to the top then down the standard SE ridge. If the couloir had been climbed since 2003, they weren’t in the register. So, with the serious climbing behind us, all that was left was plenty of talus surfing, a couple more blisters and six more trail miles to camp and the car. The way we did it required a big day (~14 mi. and over 7 k up and down), but the constantly changing terrain kept things interesting. I’m not sure where else you would camp without a carry-over or a longer backtrack.

 

In retrospect, this was a damn fine couloir climb, surely one of the best in the Pasayten (not much competition, I admit). Or as Andy sums it up: “1400' of mind-enhancing rhythmic front pointing slickness”. The difficulty and commitment (~grade II+) are similar to the North Buttress Couloir on Colchuck but this one has the advantage of not getting hit by early sun. The remoteness gives it a dimension apart from the Enchantments or volcanos. This route will make a great outing for experienced backcountry climbers wanting a moderately technical snow climb that can be done in a couple of days. Or a great backup plan, when the Washington Pass rock climbs are a little damp or chilly. And further proof that not all worthwhile routes are in the Cascades Select books!

 

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

We had crampons, ice axe and helmet. If this route isn’t too easy to interest you, you might want a rope and a few pickets and possibly a second tool. You might find an occasional cam or pin placement along the sides, but don’t expect much.

Edited June 12, 2005 by curtveld

[layton]

nice dood. way to get up something pretty darn random and cool. but where are your photos? was there supposed to be a link

[curtveld]

You guessed it on the photo inserts. I'll see if I cant figure out how to get them posted .

 

Note: Problem solved since this post. Thanks to Andy

Edited June 12, 2005 by curtveld

[philfort]

Is it visible in this Scurlock photo?

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/40166101

 

Is it the secret crack in the shade in the middle of the pic, below which you can see an apron?

[curtveld]

Yeah, I think so. You can see the "rock lump" at the base of the N face in the shade. The route starts just to the left (E) of this. The route is very clear in the photo in the 75 Scrambles book (pg. 82). Cool winter shot, though.

[John_Roper]

Robinson Mountain – Crusoe Couloir

 

There is a shot of the north couloir about half way down this page.

 

http://www.rhinoclimbs.com/WashingtonsTop100byP400.31-40.htm

[John_Scurlock]

I found a (flawed)shot of the direct N (NW?) face from Feb. 3 '05 and posted it here:

 

http://www.pbase.com/nolock/image/44807561

 

Both times I have been over to Robinson the wind was howling which, because of me getting slammed around, has not allowed lower altitude flight... This perspective diminishes its huge & dominating bulk. This shot also shows the minimal snow pack, after the warm weather of mid/late January. I think JR's pic more accurately shows the potential for skiing one or both of these couloirs, "real" winter avy conditions notwithstanding. The view looks sort of SE, with Robinson Cr on the R, I believe.

 

JS

[curtveld]

Yup. The photo on the Bulger page is the same as in 75 Scrambles, yes? Any recollections from your FA or other repeaters you've heard from? Clever name, too.

[John_Roper]

Whoa, John S.—that aerial of Robinson’s Crusoe Couloir does it proud.

 

And Curt, yes I loaned that photo to Peggy for the 75 Scrambles book, and those three sentences in CAG to Fred. We spotted the somewhat hidden route in 1984, and did it with Reed Tindall in ’85. Pretty straightforward, except it was icy enough in June to make Reed a little concerned on dull 10-point crampons he threw in at the last moment.

Edited June 15, 2005 by John_Roper

[philfort]

I think JR's pic more accurately shows the potential for skiing one or both of these couloirs, "real" winter avy conditions notwithstanding.

 

Sky, Kam and I launched a scientific expedition to Robinson yesterday, and after careful analysis, Sky and I verified the skiing potential of this route.

 

[John_Roper]

One good turn deserves another, all year, any time. Nice one, Phil and Sky. Glad to see you cruised and were not crucified by Crusoe Couloir.

http://www.turns-all-year.com/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.pl?board=tr0506;action=display;num=1118961286

[curtveld]

Very impressive, guys. Not just the skiing, but hauling the boards in and out of there in a day. If I follow the route you took, you must have climbed the couloir twice in the process? I need a pair of boots that treat my feet well enough to do that!

[philfort]

I think Kam's line of the map is a little misleading. We just reversed the same route we took in.

It sure was a slog getting in and out of there - it was all I could do to keep up with Kam and Sky, and my legs are still very sore!