North Ridge of Sherpa

[jeremyr]

I was wondering if anyone knows any beta about the North Ridge of Sherpa. I am thinking about trying it but there is not much info on it. "Selected Climbs" lists it but the pictures and description are rather vague. Anybody been up there?

[John Frieh]

Follow mtneers creek in until right before you cut climbers right up the boulder field to Stuart. Instead veer left up... will cross a few boulder fields along the way. Camp in upper cirque. Climb ridge.

 

Have you been in the mtneers creek way before?

[Alasdair]

There are two possible ways on to the ridge one from the East and one from the west. I think the east is described in the book. The approach to the west is easier, and getting on to the ridge is about the same, so I would say skip all the bushwhacking and go from the west. If you do go for the east approach (which puts you in the basin below the NE face of Sherpa) Make sure you stay in the forest and do not be tempted to head out to the open areas, as they are all slide alder and very slow going.

Edited June 9, 2005 by Alasdair

[Alasdair]

I addition if you place your camp at the base of the sherpa glacier (the west approach) you will have a much easier descent. Traversing under Sherpa peak to get to sherpa arganaut col is very long and kind of a nightmare. If you are camped on the west side all you have to do is head down the sherpa glacier which is very easy.

[jeremyr]

Thanks for the info on the approach. Does anybody have any beta on the route? Is the rock good, solid? Are there some bivy spots low on the ridge?

 

No, NOLSe, I haven't been in the Mountaineers Creek way before.

[gyselinck]

GOing in that way sucks if you havent done it before. Wait a minute, it sucks if you have done it before.

[John Frieh]

Give yourself a half day to get in there (in the daylight)... it will seem like you are going the wrong way but if you keep the creek on your left you'll do fine. I think Alasdair has it right... go all the way up to the stuart moraine and come in from the east side. I haven't done this but looking at this approach it makes perfect sense (especially the descent aspect). Rock is fine from what I hear.

[rat]

the approach to the sherpa-argonaut cirque does have a bit of brush but it is not bad---half a day like nolse said. the descent to sherpa-argonaut col is fine. you can use lighter shoes and won't need an ice axe. the same probably can't be said for the sherpa glacier. and the cirque is a cool place. it's a good route with just a bit of gravelly rock near the notch where the more technical climbing starts.