Mt. Hood climb info

[slirty]

I plan on attempting Mt. Hood via the Hogback Ridge route in mid July with another beginner (two-person team). I do have some Alaskan glacier travel and ice climbing experience but not any formal crevasse rescue training. My lady friend has no experience what-so-ever on ice but she can rock climb 5.7. We will be roped-up with mechanical ascenders to aid a fall etc.. I have very good rock skills here in North Carolina (leading 5.6/climb 5.9) but unfortunately we do not have glaciers to work with. Anyways, what do you Oregoneans think? Would you recommend it? Should I hire a guide ( I'd rather not if it's not too technical)? We both have cold-weather camping experience and semi-technical high altitude ascents. I've been above 14,000 feet in Colorado with no problems. Thanks for your beta----Slirty

[Chriznitch]

there is usually only one big crevasse to deal with on that route--"the 'shrund"

pay attention to that and other crevasses that may be present on the upper palmer/whitewater (rare but can happen).

also plan to see some rockfall that time of year as the "pearly gates" will be more like the "dirty choss gates"

[iain]

I think you will do just fine with what you have, and that is a healthy sense of caution more than anything.

 

July is considered quite late to be climbing Mt. Hood, and the primary concern is rockfall. This past winter has seen a well-below-average snowfall, though our late spring has made up for it a bit. However, these spring storms melt out very quickly with no base. Interestingly, the mountain currently has a very high snow line, but once you are on the upper mountain, there is a healthy amount of snow. Perhaps even more than average for June. The mountain is just more asthetic to climb right now or earlier in general.

 

The crevasse danger is minimal on the south side of Hood, and by July, what you see will most likely be what you get. The most well-known concern is the bergschrund on the Hogsback ridge. It will be quite clear where this is in July. You just have to be careful you don't fall above it, and it can be intimidating for beginners to downclimb while looking directly at it. There are also quite a few larger crevasses starting to form out of White River Glacier that have caught a few climbers last year, resulting in a rescue for one of them.

 

Here's a photo of that one, just climber's left of the main run.

The black below is where it opens up into a cavernous thing. Incredible!

 

 

You most likely have experience navigating in a whiteout, but it should be stated that even in July the mountain can be socked in, and the wide-open slopes of the South side have seen countless epics as people wander the hills.

 

In short, you'll do just fine. If you do feel you want a guide, Timberline Mountain Guides are excellent folks.

[Ireneo_Funes]

I'd leave the ascenders at home and bring a set of prussiks each. Also, being able to climb 5.whatever isn't really going to help you on a volcano slog like South Side of Hood. It's basically several hours of trudging uphill, so you'll want to be generally fit.

 

Know how to self-arrest with your ice axe, too.

[billcoe]

Fuenos nailed it with the learn to self arrest comment.

 

That alone is the greatest single skill you can posess on a slog like this.

 

As Iain said, there is only 1 crevase and in July its very visable, and stay the hell out of the Fumerole that will most likely be very interesting looking at that time of year.

 

You might consider just hiking up a bit from Timberline with a tent and overnight gear, and practicing self-arrest on one of the minor snow slopes that has a safe runout. Spend an extra day practicing and hanging out, then fire the route early (by following the other 2000 people heading up that day).

 

 

 

Wearing a helmet (Re-read Iains part about the rocks twice if you need to) and good eye protection/sunscreen/lipscreen is a must.

 

I've seen people up there in july in tennis shoes, with a walking stick and no more: climb to the top in a tank top and shorts. But I don't recommend it. I've been on rescues of people who were very prepared and a damn good thing they were as bad weather screwed their plans and they got stuck for a while.

 

Good luck

[slirty]

Thanks all for the info. It sounds like the only obstacle is the 'shrund (either go left or right). I will teach my fellow climber how to self-arrest and climb in crampons. I feel we can do this ourselves and save the $$ that we would have spent on a guide. What time should we get started? I think we'll pitch my tent above the ski lift---- it's an '05 REI Half-Dome though. It's not a mountaineering tent but do you think that's OK? How bad are the winds? If you all recommend a 4-season tent I can rent one when we get there. Thanks again for the help-----Slirty

[sean_beanntan]

i keep reading this self arrest shit when it comes to climbing. Ok so here is my take on self arrest

 

"its ok to fall since i can self arrest...ok lets see, it will be a steep icy slope wearing a back pack and i have only practised on a soft snow near horizontal slope. how many people out there has arrested a fall on a steep icy 45-50 degree slope. SELF ARREST IS OVERATED. If you dont lose control, you wont need it. Focus on control not the lack of it and what you will do when you lose it.

 

nuff said, hope you have a great climb but you sure cant teach effective self arrest in a day

 

-J

[slothrop]

Your tent should be fine. Start early so you can see the sunrise! And you will have better snow conditions (assuming it freezes overnight) before the sun turns everything sloppy.

[billcoe]

how many people out there has arrested a fall on a steep icy 45-50 degree slope.

 

I have on some pretty steep slopes, not 45-50 degree slopes, but more than once although icy is a subjective thing as you know. One time with 3 people tied in behind me. But I thought he's doing the south side of Hood. It's not 45-50 degrees, I hear it's 35 degrees at the steepest, and in July it would be doubtful that it is icy at all. Think slushy.

 

SELF ARREST IS OVERATED. If you dont lose control, you wont need it. Focus on control not the lack of it and what you will do when you lose it.

 

Somewhat in agreement. If you can slam the shaft of your ice axe straight down, and in July you will, you're going nowhere. Better to focus on both perhaps? Your althletisism from doing long climbs-hikes and balance which you've got from rock climbing will help you a lot.

 

nuff said, hope you have a great climb but you sure cant teach effective self arrest in a day

 

-J

 

Not sure I agree with that self arrest in a day statement Sean.

 

Answering the tent question. For what you are going to do, your tent should be fine. If the weather is so bad you need a 4 season tent, you shouln''t be going up, but heading to the Rams Head (?) (bar inside of Timberline lodge) and drinking a couple of Spanish Coffees.

http://www.timberlinesymposium.com/HTML/venue.html

 

Hmmmmm......Spanish Coffees.......mmmmmmmmmmmmm

 

 

If you decide to pitch the tent for any amount of time, not just overnight, you might look around for a little valley or low spot to put it in, there's high spots and low spots all over the slopes. Most likely any serious wind will be coming in from the west that time of year, so plan accordingly.

 

Just pay close attention to the weather reports. If it's stable extended weather you may have little problems other than potential rock fall as Iain warned.

 

I've climbed that mountain at least once in every month of the year. July-August and on can have some interesting rocks come down: not like in a rock climbing area where most commonly you'll see some 1"-2" rocks, but sometimes real big-assed rocks. You'd think the slushy snow would stop them dead, but occasionally you'll get these head-sized rocks whiz right by you so fast you can barely see them. It's amazing that more people don't get smacked by them IMO.

 

Maybe as the date gets closer, check in here and see if somebody is heading up there and you can hook up with them. You should be fine though, and you'll have a great time if the weather co-operates.