slothrop Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 Climb: Prusik Peak-West Ridge Date of Climb: 6/4/2005 Trip Report: At the risk of causing West Ridge Beta Overload, here's a brief TR. My friend Ben's on a climbing rampage ever since he broke up with his girlfriend and this last "winter" cured my friend Josh of the desire to ski, so we needed to go to the mountains. Ben packed in a 14" kielbasa and I brought a quart of PBR. Good times at camp. El Puto de Kunzo Up at 6am, we looked for friends Fromage and Jumar Jon, but they were no where to be found. The flatulence of the previous night continued through the morning and was the source of much humor. We started up the West Ridge in a cool breeze (windshirt recommended here). The climbing was good fun, with nice exposure, and went quickly. It's too bad you have to do a couple short pitches because of rope drag around ridge features. For the last pitch, we walked to the right end of the ledge splitting the summit block (above the handcrack) and belayed at the bolt overlooking the west face. A cool knob grab leads to the hilarious 5.4 chimney and the summit. Josh struggles with pack and chimney Josh on the FULLY HORIZONTAL summit crack (5.15c) The descent was annoying. Three 30m raps from the summit bolt into a couloir, downclimbing steepish hard snow in approach shoes, traversing same snow back to the balanced rock. I'm sure there's a better way, but whatever. Lots of fun-looking cracks on the north side. Gear Notes: 60m half rope w/Reverso nuts #4-8 Forged Friends #1.5, 1.75, 2.5 hexes #9, 10 three smallest tri-cams (didn't use) four double slings, three singles clipped several fixed pieces and rap stations Booty Report + #10 Stopper, double Mammut shoelace sling - cordelette * fixed small blue cam on pitch before the slab move Approach Notes: 2:45 to Upper Snow Lake snow-free to just before Lake Viviane, little snow to Prusik Pass awesome bivy spots! larches have nice green buds no skeeters, one tick, no Tool Quote
Szyjakowski Posted June 8, 2005 Posted June 8, 2005 SWEET! and nice photos. your last statement maybe a bit perplexing to the newbie so I will clarify so they understand. Tool = US Forest Circus (service) Rangers who ticket you, not to be with the rock band. Quote
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