Rapple Grapple - Other Spires

[Blake]

Can anyone out there give me a heads up on the approach to this route on Lib. Bell? All I know is that it starts near the Beckey route.

P.S. Am I crazy for thinking that N. Face of Burgundy and/or Paisano will be a realistic day trip this weekend?

[layton]

rappel grappel is the descent for the beckey route. climb the beckey route and then do it...or if you wanna be all about that route, it's just before the col b/t the two spires.

 

the burgundy paisano is totaly realistic for a day trip, just start a little earlier, which even if you weren't going for it is a much better idea than sloggin up Burgundy col in the heat of the day (ugggggh!) it should take 2-4 hours to get to the base

[Dru]

overexposed is the descent. rappel grappel is between the two or something.

[layton]

whoops

[Blake]

rappel grappel is the descent for the beckey route. climb the beckey route and then do it...or if you wanna be all about that route, it's just before the col b/t the two spires.

 

the burgundy paisano is totaly realistic for a day trip, just start a little earlier, which even if you weren't going for it is a much better idea than sloggin up Burgundy col in the heat of the day (ugggggh!) it should take 2-4 hours to get to the base

 

I meant more "with the current conditions" not in general, but I appreciate the input regardless. All I know of Rapple GRapple I stole from the NC mountain guides page

 

"While often overlooked due to the popularity of its nieghbor, the Beckey Route, this climb offers some of the best quality moderate climbing on Liberty Bell. Often combinged with an ascent of the Beckey Route, or used as an option to avoid the crowds, this route provides 3-4 pitches of sustained 5.7 finger and hand crack climbing. While almost half of all ascents of Liberty Bell take place on the Beckey Route, this climb (only 100 feet away) is rarely done and has become a favorite among our guides."

[goatboy]

Rapple Grapple is fun. Here's the deal:

 

Hike to Notch between Liberty Bell and Concord (standard approach for Beckey Rt).

 

Pitch 1: Same as Beckey Route, but go past another pine tree or two on the big ledge at the top (about another 40 feet or so).

 

Pitches 2-3: Follow obvious cracks, steep at times, on quality rock, directly up for two pitches. Pitch three is a steep finger crack to start.

 

This "short circuits" the Beckey Route and takes you directly to the shoulder below the 5.7 slab (one-move of 5.7). Leave ropes here and scramble to the top.

 

Descent: Down standard rappel route (best done in two rappels rather than one long one -- though I noticed someone cut down the rope-eating tree last year!?!?)

 

Dru's right -- Rapple Grapple is between Beckey Rt and Overexposure.

 

This is a fun route which can help you avoid the crowds on weekends - until now.

[Bill_Simpkins]

These are fun. After the 1st pitch of the Beckey route, take the ramp right to a crack. Go up this crack and a corner to a sling and horn belay. (5.7)

From here you can go left on a traversing crack then up where the crack splits to meet back up with the standard Beckey route. (5.6) . This way was my favorite as the exposure is nice one the traverse. Or you can go staight up from the horn belay.