catbirdseat Posted May 23, 2005 Posted May 23, 2005 I'm not absolutely certain of the route name, but it is a 5.8 double crack climb. It's a fine route, I would recommend to others. The anchor I found is like this: two bolts about 24 inches apart, each bolt has a welded cold shut with a length of chain about 8 inches long attached. The chains need to be at least doubled in length, otherwise they are worse than useless. We left some webbing and an aluminum rap ring on it. It would be great if someone would take care of this next time they visit. All it would take would be two 10" pieces of chain and a pair of quick links. Quote
crazyjizzy Posted May 25, 2005 Posted May 25, 2005 Then go to the store and do it. Do you want people to do it for you? What is wrong with extending them with webbing? And then rap from another anchor. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 25, 2005 Author Posted May 25, 2005 I seldom get out there, is all. Guys like Sobo are out there all the time. One of the nice things about the place is it is relatively free of unsightly webbing and I like it that way. Quote
sobo Posted May 25, 2005 Posted May 25, 2005 Guys like Sobo are out there all the time. Welllllll, that used to be the case. After this weekend, I'll be getting out there about as much as you, CBS. My banishment to the Oklahoma Dustbowl of Washington begins this weekend, with the Great Migration to the Dry Shitties. BTW, Little Known Wonder is a 5.7, but stiff for it's grade (as with most old RC trad climbs). Glad you enjoyed it. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 26, 2005 Author Posted May 26, 2005 Stiff for it's grade, but still a lot easier than X-Factor (or especially Cutting Edge). They used to be 5.7 and 5.7+ respectively. I think Yoder has them both as 5.8's now. Quote
sobo Posted May 27, 2005 Posted May 27, 2005 Yeah, I noticed that. And I agree, too. The topout on Cutting Edge can be scary for a new leader, leaning way back like that to clear the cleaver and scratching at ball bearing grit up top... Quote
selkirk Posted May 27, 2005 Posted May 27, 2005 There's a climb I did last summer that i've never figured out what it was (likely in the 5.7+range) out at RC, and I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts? It was on the climbers right hand side of the area. Two cracks on either side of a column, one offwidth, one thin-fingers/pro only. At the top transitioned to a few face moves, then finished on a bit set of chains, on the pillar just left of the left hand crack. I think on the next face over from the pillar there was quite old fixed hex (different route though). Haven't seen Ford and Yoder but was curious. Need climb, knee jams and arm bars followed by sketcy face moves to protect in the other crack as I only had 1 big cam Quote
selkirk Posted July 8, 2005 Posted July 8, 2005 Just got the guide book and it's actually called Double Trouble. The "5.5" finish goes straight up the crack on the left, i'm guessing to a gear anchor, but with a redirect the bolts on the 5.9 just to the right make a nice top rope anchor. It still gets a big 5.5 my though. Oh, and First Blood is not a fist crack unless your 6'4", 250 lbs with hands to match! That thing is offwidth more than anything else. Quote
TeleRoss Posted July 9, 2005 Posted July 9, 2005 I've found that to be the case on many climbs especially at Royal Columns. Hand cracks are more like fists, and fist cracks more like offwidth to chimneys. Go figure. The FA's must have been some kind of huge dude(s)(ets). Quote
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