Crackalicious Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Another Stuart question: Due to the amount of snow we plan to encounter we are planning on Bivying somewheres on the ridge, rather than not planning to and doing it anyway. I noticed a few site options in the Selected Climbs book. Any suggestions for a good bivy site? Word to your mom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Welcome to the board! Do you absolutely need to do the route this soon? Can you put it off for a few weeks? If you do wait all the snow will be gone and you can climb the route much faster and not have to carry bivy gear which will only make the climbing that much more enjoyable. Ask yourself: do I really want to bumble around with pack hauling on the gendarme? If you have to do it soon and insist on bivying the bivy sites at the cheater notch is very nice. The other ones listed are also adequate (though I’ve never slept at any of them). When ever you go make sure to post a TR when you get back! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackalicious Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 Thanks for the info. This is just one of a few climbs we may be going to do. I know we would have an easier time if we wait. Hmmmm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Are you looking for climbs for this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackalicious Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 Yes, we had a few in mind, but my friend REALLY wants to do this climb (so do I, but I think we may wait on it for a few weeks) Any other suggestions? We were thinking Ice cliff or stuart glacier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 SGC should still be in but with this heat it will be going fast. You can easily climb either of those routes in a day car to car. Another option to consider would be stay in there and do both routes (SGC and IC). Other options in the area to consider would be the north ridge of sherpa (a good warm up for Stuart N ridge) or something on Dragontail or Colchuck. WA pass should also be nice (though its been over a few weeks so I've been there so I don't know how the snow pack is); you can easily link multiple routes in a day there. Finally you might want to consider snagging the west or east (or both) ridge of Forbidden. It will only get more crowded as the year goes on. PM me if you have specific questions. Don't force the north ridge of stuie... it stays in as late as Oct! And if you do the IC keep your eyes open for a quark ergo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackalicious Posted May 24, 2005 Author Share Posted May 24, 2005 Thanks for the input, Stu is about as far N as we want to drive (from Eugene) for a three day period. We're thinking of the Adams glacier as well, but it mat just be too hot. You lost a tool???? That sucks, where on the route? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 details Too far from Eugene?!? WA pass is easily worth the 7 hour drive my friend. Especially if you are going to be there for 3 days! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 SGC should still be in but with this heat it will be going fast. You can easily climb either of those routes in a day car to car. This is the type of on-line advice I just love. Giving fairly serious advice to someone of unknown abilities about an "easy" day trip you recently did in total round trip time, 21 hours for me. - (Nolse and partner) For what it's worth a majority of climbers tend to climb north side routes from a bivi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbw1966 Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 There is no way you can make it to WA pass from Eugene in 7 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Frieh Posted May 24, 2005 Share Posted May 24, 2005 I believe Nelson's book says the same thing... could be wrong though... Regardless sorry if my comments were misleading. I do think any competent, fit party who is familiar with the approach (the crux) can tick this route in a day car to car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackalicious Posted May 25, 2005 Author Share Posted May 25, 2005 Thanks for the info, but we decided to head for Adams Glacier as it is much closer and sounds like we might get good conditions. Have fun if you climb something soon (you should) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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