Mt baker Colemn/Deming

[letsroll]

Never done this befre and taking a group of newbies to pop thier summit cherries. How long does it take from the car to base camp via heliotrope ridge trail? Should we take approach shoes for the heliotrope trail? Other than cravases is there other considerations that I should take into account? I also was thinking about skiing down the Colemn/Deming route is this a shitting idea, love to get some turns in . Also I was going to stay an extra day and do the north face, what do you think the conditions are like?

 

See post below, little more detail, sorry

Edited May 19, 2005 by letsroll

[markharf]

I started writing an elaborate critique, but I'm just not as well supplied with vim and vigor as I used to be. If a troll, you're kind've crude but will probably draw some responses. If serious, are you really thinking about abandoning your newbie charges in order to ski down? Do you actually know so little about the route on which you'll be "taking" all these cherry poppers that you need to ask what objective dangers to expect? And, not least, were you thinking of soloing the North Ridge? Heh heh.

 

Based on my direct experience, I'd recommend a nice warm day, tennis shoes with aluminum crampons, light tele skis and boots, minimal rescue gear, and a car-to-car time of ten hours or so. A man running for his life would certainly do it faster; an experienced climber familiar with the route but trailing a load of noobs would certainly want to allow longer. It is most commonly done in two days.

 

enjoy,

 

Mark

[spicoli11]

I got all confused as how to respond to this one 2.......but you put it well. I"ve never heard any cherries pop up there

[ashw_justin]

Trailhead to 6000' base camp: 1.5 to 2 hours.

Trailhead to 7000' base camp (involves glacier travel): 2.5-3 hours.

 

Take whatever footwear you like but the trail will probably be mixed dry/snow.

 

Not sure why you're asking us why you should ski or not, that is a personal decision. Now that you've clarified that there will be a substantial rope team, if it was me I would probably ski.

 

I would only consider the Coleman Headwall if you have experience on similarly demanding lines with less objective hazard. I haven't been up there but it is steep and there could easily be soft slides and mandatory crevasse/bergshrund jumps where a fall might mean the end. There are lots of other steep lines that are less tenuous. But if you are some badass skier with nerves of steel then it may not be a problem for you.

Edited May 19, 2005 by ashw_justin

[letsroll]

7 people are going up there. Three of us know crevasse rescue so safty of the newbies has been thought out. I feel confident that if someone did fall that we have enough expereinced people that we could handle the rescue situation with out aid of the newbies or assist in the newbie getting out. As for skiing the route it looks like a good one, just wondering if I was out of my mind in thinking so. Further more (just so you don't think I am a complete ass) I would only ski down if the objective danger was low (it is never zero when climbing) and I felt confident that everybody would make it down safely (i.e. weather, avi, and crevasse danger were at acceptable levels). I would not leave newbies on thier own!!!! I could not and would never do that for thier saftey and more importantly for my own piece of mind. Personally it would be very hard if not impossible for me to live with myself if some one was hurt because of something I did, more specifically if I left them on thier own as you thought I was going to do. If I felt there was any overt danger to anybody in the climbing party I have not problem calling the climb and hitting the nearest bar. I sertanly could have given more detail about the climb and is the cause of the confusion.

 

Sorry it was not the NF, I ment Coleman Headwall. That is what I get for trying to remember route names with out looking them up

Please excuse the spelling it is very late and brain fried.

[Dru]

theres a lot of freshiez up there today

 

if you climb like you spell, i predict a quick trip to the bar

[IceIceBaby]

Sorry, to butt-in but as ya all know I am the ultimate gaper.

So I was wondering if anyone know

1 in what condition the Colman headwall is?

2 on the gear aspect do I need 2 tools?

3 the traverse from the foot of Colfax/below the saddle (point 8800) toward Colman HW below the Roman Nose is it in good condition or should I scrap it?

My thought was to get to that Point (8800), camp, and decide than whether to do the C-D or the CHW the info will definitely help me to lighten my backpack and save time so all info is welcome.