Mt Baring

[TYSON]

Climbed Mt Baring over the weekend, in great weather.No snow to speak of all the way up to 4800'.However the small amounts that were frozrn on the south side woods made for some tricky walking on steep slopes.Camped in basin below gully to notch.Summited sunday in a high overcast somewhat icy the last 800' or so from notch crampons would have been good.headed down broke camp and returned to car with about a hour of daylight left.What a nice climb, a great winter(spring) ascent.

[rayborbon]

Tyson,

Is there climbable ice? I hear rumors of possibilities. How about a technical winter shot of even lesser difficulties but more than you mention? I dont want to take away from your venture.

-Ray

[TYSON]

Ray,

Im not much of a technical ice climber but there did seem to be some route possibility as well as some fairly well formed ice in the basin under the gully leading to the V notch. It would be to the right of the steepest cliff bands on the south face of the north summit.Some of my more ice savvy partners were wishing they had brought some pro and a rope to have a go on these smears.Personally if I was proficient enough I would like to have a go at a couple of smears that headed up to what appeared to be some short steep sections and then meet the normal route topping out on the ridge maybe 200 feet above the V notch.Anyway the area is worth the trip it is strenous but unique and interesting. with some pretty good exposure.

[SpongeBob]

did you go up from the south side by the highway or next to the barclay trailhead?

[TYSON]

We went up the route next to/above the lake trail. The travel through those woods as well as the woods on the south side were at the time that we were there the crux of the route.

Tyson

[SpongeBob]

I have enjoyed going that way the last couple of times to the summit but now am looking to climb to the v notch from the northeast gulley. As soon as this new snow consolidates within the rock and existing ice ,this should be a fun mixed route.

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[TYSON]

Interesting route idea I was scoping that out myself when I did a hike to the lake with with my wife and dog.I would seriously wait for the right conditions, we watched avalanches countinously stream down 3 prominent areas on the NE face the entire two hours we were at the lake.The NE gully was one of these areas.When you do it right a report I would like to hear the details.

Tyson

[SpongeBob]

Living in the area gives me the opertunity to monitor conditions almost daily if need be. Will write a report as soon as the route shapes up.Also looking at Merchant Pk from one of the north gullies having tried from eagle lake/east ridge last winter we were turned back just under the summit due to heavy snowfall and with darkness coming fast we opted to retreat!Hopefully we have better luck this year.

[climbing_kid]

Tyson

I have climbed this area and all around it. It has always left me in awe, quite an impressive area. If you like vertical columns of rock and ice. The last time I was on Mt. Baring it was on the west side of the north peak. A climbing buddy and myself found some good alpine ice to climb. We all so found some huge Ice caves that are the size of a small apartment building. The next ascent on mt. Baring will be from the east side to the summit if weather permits, this area seems to slide a lot.

Spongebob I'm now allowed to climb again LETS GO.

[climbing_kid]

Lots of heavy rain last night to clear the chutes. woke up to frost on the deck this morning. I think spongebob, sqiudward, and myself will try to find our way up the northeast side of north peak of baring. or maybe south face of the south peak. we will post a report tomorow evening.

[SquidWard]

Are you sure the Wife will let you go out and play? (High-Flounder).

[mneagle]

Has anyone out there climbed the north face or Dolomite Tower. I scoped out the approach and descent last year but didn't get a chance to climb.I'm wondering how the bivy site is on the Becky route and whether Dolomite Tower requires a portaledge or if there are decent ledges to sleep on. Also, has anyone that's been out there noticed whether there is still snow or ice on the routes.

[SpongeBob]

We hiked up to the base of the north side to climb some mixed stuff but the warm temps were causing alot of ice to fall from high above.High avy danger kept us from the northeast gully and with all the recent snowfall weve been getting up here it looks like it will be a while before we get back on it.I will post the conditions as soon as they shape up. Bob

[Bronco]

tr for 4/21/02

 

as I was kicked out of the house for a baby shower all day, I thought i would do some exloring on Mt. Baring, check out the North and South summits.

 

get up at 5:00 drive to within 1/2 mile from trailhead (blocked by snow) low clouds and periodic drizzle 6 am.

 

take climbers path marked by a cairn on old road past trailhead. checked out large avalache chute full of old consolidated debris just past the climber's path. HMMMM... looks like an easy way up ...... although I better stick to the prescribed route as this is the first time on this mountain, 5 minutes later I lose the climber's "path" and decide to stick to the open timber next to the large avvy chute to check it out. evidence of recent scouring noted, however, I keep finding myself out in the chute as it it way easier than climbin over logs and brush and whatnot. Despite it's lush inviting forest, that is a steep dang mountain! 30 - 45 degrees the entire way up to the west ridge.

 

Gain the top of the ridge @ 4,300'. travel along the ridge in the clouds, side hill on the south side of the ridge when encountering cliff. Keep moving east, (I think it was east, I left my compass on the seat of my truck), along steepening slope until you find the "gully with rocks on the left". Kick steps and climb 50 - 60 degree gully (with steeper bulges) to top of ridge to see where the hell I am.

 

now at 4,900' on top of the ridge, visibility is about 50' - 100', windy, temps in the mid 30's and moist. I see what I think could be the gully leading higher to the "V" notch and summit ridge, but, what was firm well consolidated snow lower, is now very wet, heavy 10" - 12" of slush on top of a thick raincrust.

 

HMMMMMMM.... listen to sluffs coming off of what I assume is the summit (I never did see the upper mountain) I decide to go for it, take a few steps into the bowl leading to the gully and trigger a small slide. HMMMMMM... this route is fun but not worth this stress, and being alone is not the best time to be in conditions like they were.

 

down climbing the steepest section was interesting with my quads cramping (dehydrated from too much beer the night before) by the time I got to the avvy chute I had decided to descend it on my ass which saved a lot of time, watch out for the occasional moat and drop off.

 

I think I stumbled on some meth scientists trying to hide in the bushes on the way out. "what are you doing in there?" One says "Nothin" the other says "Hikin".

 

went craggin at IndexTW after that. (it was only 11:00 when I got back to my truck)

 

I though it was interesting that the first post on this thread is from january of '01 and he reported no snow until my approximate high point of 4,800'. I had deep snow the entire way.