goatboy Posted May 9, 2005 Share Posted May 9, 2005 Climb: Stuart-Ice Cliff Glacier Date of Climb: 5/7/2005 Trip Report: Brief (tired!) version of TR here. More details and more photos to follow soon... Climbed the Ice Cliff Glacier in very good conditions yesterday. Great neve on most of route, with a short section of ice around the ice cliff (go figure!). Overview of route from approach trail: Ice Cliff -- we followed ramps and bulges on the left side: Absolutely great route, with low objective hazard (relatively speaking) this time of year -- lots of avalanche debris at bottom of route, but barely anything coming down on us en route -- snowpack and cornices above seemed pretty stable. My partner: We opted against the summit, given the whiteout and driving wind when we topped out at the col -- took a sharp right and headed down the Sherpa, following a good bootpack to find the proper descent col.... Sherpa Glacier descent very reasonable right now, with a few large crevasse or bergschrund crossings with either good bridges or easily bypassed to climber's right. Able to safely glissade a lot of the descent, after the initial 1500 feet of 40-degree neve...There is one large ice cliffband below which warrants caution (stay to skiers left) on descent there ... Did the route in 6 hours, the descent (and some rests) took another 2.5 -- back to camp in time for some tea and soup before slogging out to the car (and a few beers) in Leavenworth. Approach took us about 5 hours. Hike out took about 4. Saw another party of 4 who climbed the Stuart Glacier Couloir, reporting good conditions there as well . . . . That's the Trip Report for now. Go get it!! Great route in stellar alpine environment. Views of the Complete North Ridge are inspirational... Gear Notes: Two Tools Two Pickets 5 Slings (didn't use) 5 ice screws (didn't use) Rock pro (didn't use) 30 meter rope Approach Notes: Mostly good snow or dry ground . . .. Some post holing, punching through to crotch at times Otherwise reasonable -- good bootpack to follow. Snowshoes would not be very helpful due to intermittent nature of snow....not worth the weight! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
111 Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 gorgeous route. looks heavenly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AaronB Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Great and usefull beta and photos! Nice TR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 11, 2005 Author Share Posted May 11, 2005 Thanks -- I tried to include some helpful info in case someone wants to go get it -- though I hear there are some pretty good steps kicked in the SGC right now!!!! Sorry the photos are so large . . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex_Mineev Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 how bad is the cornice on the left at the exit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
goatboy Posted May 11, 2005 Author Share Posted May 11, 2005 The second image shows the exit, which is the right hand fork of the couloir -- so, the cornice on the left we avoided -- it looked bad -- the cornice on the right is EASILY bypassed to the right or West, as it is not continuous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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