Beta Mt. Baker North Ridge

[crackedribs]

Hi, wondering if anyone can provide some beta to climbing the North Ridge of Mt. Baker?

[Dru]

Bring some ice screws and two tools.

[Lionel_Hutz]

Bring some ice screws and two tools.

 

Maybe crampons . . . oh yeah, and some neutrinos and a windshirt. Perhaps blackberry for on-route beta-grovling.

[Cobra_Commander]

"a" windshirt? please.

[Lionel_Hutz]

"a" windshirt? please.

 

Shit . . . the north ridge is the easton glacier of Baker's north side. why would you need more than one winshirt?

[Alpinfox]

why would you need more than one winshirt?

 

That depends.

 

How do you plan to use the windshirt?

 

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p.s. The route is pretty obvious and straightforward. If you don't own it already, buy "selected climbs in the Cascades - Nelson/Potterfeld" for a good description.

 

Get an early start as you have lots of crevasses and snow bridges to negotiate on the Coleman. Try not to fall in any of them.

 

There is very little technical climbing on the NR (maybe 1.5 pitches) so make sure you get to lead the "first" pitch.

 

"Hey bro, I'll take this one and you can get the next one, OK?"

 

Skis would be a good thing to take to your high camp - maybe even up the route if you're feelin' spunky. The NR can easily be done in a day from the trailhead, but camping up there is nice. No need to go very high - heliotrope ridge is fine.

 

Two tools, a picket or two, and a handful of screws should lead you to glory.

 

It's fun poppin' over the top and seeing the hordes that just swarmed up the CD/EG routes staring at you thinkin', "Where did those guys come from?"

 

If you want a quieter -more wildernessesque- experience, try to climb the route mid-week.

 

Enjoy and be sure to post a Trip Report here when you get back.

 

 

[layton]

follow nelson's appoach line he drew directly through the center of the coleman glacier (the mile long serac/crevasse field) to make it more interesting.

see page 207 selected climbs vol II for a good chuckle.

Edited May 9, 2005 by michael_layton

[Briang]

I was up on Baker with Adrian B on Fri/Sat. We did a recon approach on Fri late morning. The snow across the Coleman was very soft and tiring to slog through. We chose a fairly straight forward route and easily avoided most crevases, though I did pop my foot through a couple of times. The Coleman head wall had a fair number of snow/ice chunks that looked as if they wanted to bonk you on the head. We woke early Sat @ 1:00AM and left the tent @ 2:00. The snow was VERY firm on the approach and MUCH less tiring. We shaved about 30-45 min off the approach and arrived much less tired! I was thankfull we did a recon and even more thankfull for the firm conditions. The route we chose may not be the std N.Ridge route. We ascended fairly high on the Roosevelt Gl. and traversed in onto the N. Ridge. We felt this eliminated some chances of being bonked on the head by the afforementioned snow/ice chunks. For the most part the snow was good to excellent and very confidence inspiring. We moved as fast as possible as we felt we were racing the weather somewhat. We saw the fog come in when we did the recon the day before and did NOT want to route find in THAT! Just before we hit the first bit 'o technical ice (and just after we were feeling a bit tired) we shared a Red Bull. I would laugh at that admission myself, but I seriously think it was a part of our success. It was worth packing up and down. We simulclimbed the whole route. Although we didn't protect the route in a normal fasion, we were careful about where one another was. Any true ice we encounterd was HARD! Some of the more exiting moments were navigating the tops of some seracs and of course the more verical ice. Watch for crevases appearing as if by magic accompanied by a concussive BOOM! We reached the summit plateau just after 8:00 and the "true" summit @ 8:30. The race against the weather turned out to be a race against ourselves. We were greeted by a great view of our world below under a blanket of clouds, brilliant sun above, and a short time later a trio of Van. Islanders (Lord Bryson and Company!). We shared one last Red Bull, some brie, mini bagles and pepperoni. The mostly dead batteries in my digi cam allowed us only one summit shot (and none on route either!). So with photograghic evidence secured, full (well, fullish anyways) bellies, quenched thirst and great spirits we headed down the C/D. We merrily glisaded bounded and romped back to our tent passing at least a dozen or so heading up! We descended into the fog about 1200 ft above the moraines and were back at our tent at ~10:30.

 

This was our first "real" alpine adventure! We both found it very rewarding and were very pleased with our time. Although we didn't protect the route or belay any pitches I think perhaps some parties will. There is some exposure on the route! We did have four 71cm pickets, six screws eight draws, and a partridge in a pear tree. (well, a two pack of Red Bull and some brie). I wouldn't consider not using two ice tools. We used a skinny 45m rope and found it worked well for us. We were tied in short most of the time.

 

We enjoyed the route a great deal and if you go I suggest you approach early. It was a beautiful starlit approach complete with comets, tails and all! We were past most of the objective hazards when the sun broke and shortly there after a barrage of ice and snow chunks. I wouldn't want to be under that stuff when the morning sun hits it. I believe we had very favourable conditions and that is mostly responsible for our quickish time.

 

We climbed in down jackets until just below the summit plateau.

 

Brian

 

p.s. We found a roll of exposed film on the summit plateau and would be pleased to be able to return it! PM me if it is yours.

Edited May 9, 2005 by Briang