Long falls on Friction

[Ed_Seedhouse]

Nothing's changed on that 10d move - I did it a year and a half ago and was just as terrified - made the move first try but right before the bolt (1/4 in too!) my feet started to go! Slid about 3 inches before I was able to grab onto "something" not sure what it was but I made the pitch onsight and swore I'd never do it again - FWIW my partner reported the old 1/4in are now healthy 3/8" SS so I may have to wander up there again to do the full Dream Symphony (or Dream On - anyone here done Dream On?)

 

I finally got to second that pitch (I was never stupid enough to want to lead it) a few years after the Foweraker episode. Dave Lepard lead and I thought the 10d move was casual in Fire's. Never got to try it with E.B.'s.

 

Dave and Carla Bortoletto did Dream on last summer with a tiny bit of aid on the 5.12 section apparantly.

 

But be mentally prepared for an 80 foot unprotected traverse on 5.10/11 slab. On my climb with Dave he fell off on this part (thank God so I didn't have to follow it) and we rapped off.

[mattp]

The bicycle will not be needed after next week.

 

Most excellent!!

 

Is the forest service doin' the fixin', or locals?

 

The Forest Service.

WCC web page

[matt_m]

Nothing's changed on that 10d move - I did it a year and a half ago and was just as terrified - made the move first try but right before the bolt (1/4 in too!) my feet started to go! Slid about 3 inches before I was able to grab onto "something" not sure what it was but I made the pitch onsight and swore I'd never do it again - FWIW my partner reported the old 1/4in are now healthy 3/8" SS so I may have to wander up there again to do the full Dream Symphony (or Dream On - anyone here done Dream On?)

 

I finally got to second that pitch (I was never stupid enough to want to lead it) a few years after the Foweraker episode. Dave Lepard lead and I thought the 10d move was casual in Fire's. Never got to try it with E.B.'s.

 

Dave and Carla Bortoletto did Dream on last summer with a tiny bit of aid on the 5.12 section apparantly.

 

But be mentally prepared for an 80 foot unprotected traverse on 5.10/11 slab. On my climb with Dave he fell off on this part (thank God so I didn't have to follow it) and we rapped off.

 

You mean after you pull the roof (bulge) with the manky fixed pin and head straight left into Unfinished? Yep - that was terrifying! For both leader and follower!

[Dr_Flash_Amazing]

Amigos no los permitan amigos a escalar los slabs.

[Ed_Seedhouse]

But be mentally prepared for an 80 foot unprotected traverse on 5.10/11 slab. On my climb with Dave he fell off on this part (thank God so I didn't have to follow it) and we rapped off.

 

You mean after you pull the roof (bulge) with the manky fixed pin and head straight left into Unfinished? Yep - that was terrifying! For both leader and follower!

 

No, after you traverse left around 25 feet on the fourth pitch and belay again. Then you climb impossible looking slab straight up to a bolt and begin to traverse w-a-y right for about 80 feet on way steep manky slab with no pro.

 

That's where "Dream On" goes - I think you are talking about "Dream Symphony". As I said, thank God I never had to follow that pitch.

 

Ed