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Climbing in Nigeria


olyclimber

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I got this email this morning. It sort of reminds me of a Nigerian email. Anyone else get it?

 

<snip>

Dear Mountain Lovers,

 

Due to the political turmoil that has recently developed in

ex-Soviet Central

Asian Republic Kyrghyzstan, which is making travelling through this

country highly

uncertain and potentially dangerous, we, BamIDunya expedition services,

had a number

of members of the Kingata Shan Exploratory Expedition, scheduled for

this summer 17

June to 7 July dropping out.

As permit application was already made this leaves us with a,

limited number, of

places that we are allowed to fill in a new. As this expedition was

organised on the

budget principle, joining it is not expensive, given the quite

extraordinary nature of

the venture: 675,- Euro per person for a complete service package

starting at Kashgar

and back there at the end of the expedition.

At the end of this message we will paste some detailed information

about

intenaries, schedules, possiblities and prices. Hope you will give it a

thought, and

if interested in joining do not hesitate to ask additional questions

about it, either

by replying to this account or sending message to bam_i_dunya@yahoo.com

 

Hoping to hear from you,

 

For the Staff of Bam-I-Dunya Expedition Services, Johan, Urumqi, China.

 

 

Here some information about the Kingata Shan expedition this June/July.

 

 

Last September/October I have been doing a preliminary exploration

in this

practically unknown mountain range on the Xinjiang/Tadjikstan border

and in many

respect our findings were very successful. Kingata is not that remote,

it is a 5 hour

drive from Kashgar followed by a 3 hour walk in with pack animals to

Base Camp. Still

BC if quite far from the start of most of the climbs and advanced camps

need to be

built at the start of the climbs.

 

The range remained so unknown, not because it is utterly remote,

but because it is

in the special military borderzone with Tadjikstan, and that was for a

long time a

hotspot. Besides it is close to the Tadjikstan border there are several

mines of rare

metals like Tantalium. Up to the present day no outsiders are allowed

to cross

the checkpoint on the Muji road. But checkpoint is at a latitude that

excludes the

Southwest of the range from the closed zone. Here are found some of its

largest peaks,

wild alpine gorges and huge glaciers. During last years exploration we

climbed 4 of

the lower peaks, up to 5727 meter, which are mostly not to difficult.

 

Members will set out for base camp from Kashgar on the 17th of June On

the program is

to start with a try to ascent of Kingata Tagh, with an estimated 6780

meter the

highest of the ranges. It is technically not desperately difficult, but

neither very

easy, basically a snow and ice climb. Slovenians will go for a lower,

easier peak, as

they are not that experienced on high altitude. Most likely they will

go for Karajira

III, 6230 meter and also previously unclimbed. Myself I have planned to

make some

sorties to widen the knowledge of the inner Kingata range. That will

bring me into

officially forbidden terrain, but as it all is high on the glaciers and

ridges, no one

will bother to care.

 

Both the core team as the Slovenians have agreed that others,

individuals or small

parties can join in on their effort. As the positions and the heights

of the mountains

are still not exactly known, (the map the Petr Adamek and me drew up

for summitpost is

about the detailed there is apart from restricted military maps of the

region), the

permit for climbing in it rather comes for the range than for a certain

peak. So small

groups could join in and choose their own objectives. On the lower,

5500 meter peaks

solo ascents taking 2-3 days on easier routes are also well within the

posibilities.

 

Apart from climbing the expedition is well worth it just to join for

trekking

reasons: The whole mountain area is absolutely pristine and unlike with

area's like

Muztagata and Kongur Shan, human influence has only been minimal. The

semi nomadic

Kyrghyz from the small setlements at the bottom of the Muji river

valley, indeed do

graze their numerous yaks in the high mountain pastures and on the

overgrown moraines,

(Which makes for spectacular sight anyway: If you do not know better

you would geuss

the yaks roamed wild). But competition of the yaks with wild animals

have remained

quite minimal and there is a lot to be seen. Wolves, (who are shy: They

have learned

to know humans are dangerous), are there in some numbers, Wild mountain

goats can be

spotted, as well as blue sheep and several kind of deer. Marvelously

colored red foxes

often come well within viewing distance and on the moraines of the

glaciers a few snow

leopards have their territories. Much smaller wildlife, like hares,

rabbits, wild cats

and marmots are plentifull and in the air often sail large eagles

hunting for them.

 

Hiking up the valley of Muji river might be an experience in itself

with wide

marshy graslands everywhere and a number of winter villages of the

Kyrghyz herders,

some of them never visited before. Unlike in some other area's the

locals are very

relaxed and friendly and for a little pay will let you stay overnight

at their rock

and mud built houses as well as letting you share in their monotonous

meals. On the

opposite side of the valley in a high mountain gorge sits a large lake

Kar'mayo, with

on its banks a small village of the same name, which never saw any

visitor, but must

be a real experience to go to. Above Kar'mayo, in the fringes of the

Pamir range there

are several "hiking" summits that must be easy to reach for well

trained non

mountaineers, up to 5200 meter high. Last but not least one could join

me on my

exploratory ventures into the inner of the Kingata range, - As long as

my geographic

work is not hampered -, but one must realize that in order to get there

long times at

high altitude will be spent, icy cols of up to 6000 meter have to be

surmounted, for

sure ice/snow climbing in the lower grades will be encountered and it

is not fully

sure what kind of terrain will be found on the way. I hope that time

and feasability

will also allow me to knock of technically undifficult 6150 meter peak

Karagilik III.

 

So basically, if the skills are up to it, it is a free for all to

join. As the

present team has ordered us to keep the organisation and logistics on a

"No bullshit,

no luxury" level and group size is already rather large, participation

comes at fairly

low price per person: Around 675 Euro if wishing to be included in

mountaineering

permits . Although you will have a little additional cost for

travelling to Kashgar

and the hotel there, (comes cheap, $ 4.50 for excellent quality dorm

room beds with

own bath and television), and for sure at base camp no luxuries like

smoked salmon or

alcohol are served all the necessary is included in the package: Jeep

transport

from/to Kashgar/Karagilik, Pack animals for gear and supply transport

from to base

camp, permits, other paperwork, all foodstuffs for the expedition,

cooking service in

base camp, liaison officer, interpreter, guidance service up to

advanced base camp,

kitchen/mess tents, base camp tents, mountain tents, general climbing

gear, (stoves,

ropes, icescrews, carabiners and so on), handheld radios etc.

 

 

Karaqdzil I Mountain Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/mountain_link.pl?

mountain_id=4089

Karajira III Mountain Page;

http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/mountain_link.pl?

mountain_id=4043

Kingata Tagh Mountain Page;

http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/mountain_link.pl?

mountain_id=4064

Karajira IV Mountain Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/4355

Karaqdzil II Mountain Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/show/mountain_link.pl/mountain_id/4283

 

 

Kingata Trip Report Page 1:

http://www.summitpost.org/cgi-bin/trip_report.pl?

trip_report_id=1712&mountain_id=4064

Kingata Trip Report Page 2:

http://www.summitpost.org/cgi-bin/trip_report.pl?

trip_report_id=1704&mountain_id=4064

Karaqdzil I Trip Report Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/trip_report_list.pl/mountain_id/4089

Karaqdzil II Trip Report Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/cgi-bin/trip_report.pl?

trip_report_id=1727&mountain_id=4283

 

Kingata SW Face Route Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/4697/object_id/4064

Karaqdzil I W. Race Route Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/4463/object_id/4089

Karajira IV Left Central East Face Couloir Route Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/4860/object_id/4355

Karajira IV North Face Route Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/4859/object_id/4355

Karajira IV Southwest Flank Route Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/4861/object_id/4355

Karajira IV Southwest ridge Route Page;

http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/4852/object_id/4355

Karajira IV West Face Route Page:

http://www.summitpost.org/show/route_link.pl/route_id/4858/object_id/4355

 

Here come the exact dates for the Kingata expedition, the Services that

are included

in the package, the possibilities of what could be climbed and so on.

 

INTENARY:

 

Day 1- 15 June 2005: Arrival of team members in Kashgar, stay at Seman

Hotel

Day 2- 16 June 2005: Staying in Kashgar, Last preparations.

Day 3- 17 June 2005: Road transport over Karakoram Highway to Karagilik

village near

Bulungkol lake.

Day 4- 18 June 2005: Hike from Karagilik village to base camp at foot

of Karaqdzil II

mountain, transport of gear

by pack animals

Day 5- 19 June 2005: Acclimatisation day at base camp, reconnaissance

walks

Day 6 to Day 21- June 20 to July 4 2005: Period for climbing various

peaks and/or

hiking

Day 22- July 5: With road transport back to Kashgar

Day 23- July 6: Celebration day in Kashgar

Day 24- July 7: End of expedition, leaving for home.

 

SERVICES INCLUDED IN PACKAGE;

 

Climbing and Hiking permits

Military permit necessary for visiting this, officially closed, area

Nature preserve tax

Other paper work

Expedition managment services

Liaison officer services

Interpreter

Base camp cooks.

Road transport over Karakoram Highway to Base Camp

One night camp at Karagilik village

Transport of material to base camp

Guide, (Nurgazi Abilit), for finding the way to base camp

Kitchen tent for base camp

Mess/dinner tent for base camp

All kitchen equipment needed for base camp

All food items needed in base camp

Cooking gas needed for base camp

3 meals a day at base camp

2 person sleeping tents for base camp

Guiding up to the advanced base camps

Leightweight tents for on the mountain/during trekking

High altitude cooking stoves

Cooking pots for on the mountain

Gaz cans for the cooking stoves

All food stuffs for on the mountain/during hiking

Ropes, ice screws, carabiners, help ropes

Handheld radio sets

GPS compass.

Solar energy equipment.

Transport of materials back from Base Camp to Karagilik

Road transport from Karagilik to Kashgar

MOUNTAINS TO CLIMB;

 

Peak...........How High......Difficulty.....How far from Base

camp.....Climbed before?

 

1) Kingata Tagh...6780 Meter....Rather Difficult..5-7 hours

walking......Probaly one

time

 

Remarks: This peak will most likely be tried on the expedition

 

2) Kingata II.....6650 Meter....Moderately Diff...10 hours

walking..........Unclimbed

 

3) Karagilik I....6510 Meter....Fairly Easy.......9 hours

walking...........Unclimbed

 

4) Kingata III....6470 Meter....Difficult.........10 hours

walking..........Unclimbed

 

5) Karajira I.....6440 Meter....Difficult.........10 hours

walking..........Unclimbed

 

6) Muji I.........6325 Meter....Moderately Diff...20 hours

walking..........Unclimbed

 

7) Karagilik II...6320 Meter....Moderately Diff...8 hours

walking...........Unclimbed

 

8) Karajira II....6320 Meter....Very Difficult....9 hours

walking...........Unclimbed

 

Remarks: This peak will probably be tried by slovenian expedition

members.

 

9) Karajira III...6310 Meter....Fairly Easy.......6-7 hours

walking.........Unclimbed

 

Remark: If Slovenians do not climb No. II, they will try this peak

 

10) Baby King.....6290 meter....Very Difficult....5-6 hours

walking.........Unclimbed

 

11) Black Tooth...6250 Meter....Very Difficult....9 hours

walking...........Unclimbed

 

12) Muji II.......6230 Meter....Fairly Easy.......20 hours

walking..........Unclimbed

 

13) Karajira IV...6100 Meter....Very Easy.........4 hours

walking...........Unclimbed

 

Remarks: Will probably be tried for acclimatisation reasons.

 

14) Muji III......6080 Meter....Rather Difficult...22 hours

walking.........Unclimbed

 

15) Karagilik III.6050 Meter....Easy...............6-7 hours

walking........Unclimbed

 

Remarks: Will be tried by Alaskian/Dutch members of expedition.

 

16) Muji IV.......5890 Meter....Easy...............19 hours

walking.........Unclimbed

 

17) Karaqdzil I...5727 Meter....Fairly Easy........3 hours

walking..........Climbed

once

 

18) Karaqdzil II..5514 Meter....Rather Difficult...1-2 hours

walking........Climbed

once

 

19) Camel Head....5130 Meter....Fairly Easy........4 hours

walking..........Climbed

 

20) Camel Back....4375 Meter....Easy...............2 hours

walking..........Climbed.

 

 

 

As well transport for this expedition as the permit, - This is a

officially closed

military border region - are quite expensive, but as team is growing

large prices

remain relatively low. For foreign nationals it will be 675,- Euro,

which is about the

same as 7.150,- RMB. As for Chinese Nationals permit procedures are

less complex and

less expensive, price for them for joining will be 495 Euro, about the

same as 5.200,-

RMB.

 

 

<snip>

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Sounds like an excellent opportunity to Pay to Not Climb.

 

I thought this sounded quite attractive, though:

 

Unlike in some other area's the locals are very relaxed and friendly and for a little pay will let you stay overnight at their rock and mud built houses as well as letting you share in their monotonous meals.
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