North Sister Routes

[trapper90]

I am looking to summit all three sisters starting from the north. My mapping program, National Geographic doesn't show routes on the north sister . I was just wondering if any one could help me with the access point for the north and routes to the summit? Thanks

[iain]

The most-climbed "route" is the south ridge, starting from the saddle between North and Middle. It follows the ridgeline until the summit pinnacles. Then you head out left (west side) and do a traverse to a gulley which shows up on your right. Cut up the gulley to the summit. This can be fairly straightforward, or spicy black ice. It is best done with a good covering of snow everywhere, as you can use pickets for protection. Otherwise, it is a sketchy affair of vertical rubble and unprotectable traversing on insecure marbles. Inexplicably, most people seem to like to climb this pile in late summer. There have been a number of accidents w/o snow cover.

 

Other fairly straightforward routes include the Thayer Headwall from the east (access from Pole Creek TH) and the NW Ridge. All of these are most enjoyable and safest on cold days with good snow coverage (as is the case for almost any route in the sisters). However, since you are doing the n-s traverse, you'll probably be in there in summer.

 

If you can find a copy of Oregon High by Jeff Thomas in the library or at Powell's, etc. it has good descriptions of these routes, with photos.

[Ducknut]

This mountain is best described as a pile of loosely stacked crumbling graham crackers.

 

I entirely agree with Iain's recommendations.

[Chriznitch]

I am looking to summit all three sisters starting from the north

ahh...sounds like the infamous Sisters Marathon, that is, if you are planning on doing it in a day.

As everyone else said, the North Sister is certainly in its best shape with snow and ice cover. A climb in these conditions will usually take longer due to snow on the approach and belays for ice, etc. We traversed the mountain (north to south) last May in optimum snow conditions, however, it still took the better part of a day to do it. Occassional whiteouts, rime ice present on prouty pinnacle, and some water ice required extra attention.

 

For sure, if you have the time, definitely do your traverse in the spring! The scenery and conditions will make up for the speed lost. I've done the marathon in August and got "pretty scared" on the north sister--don't let people tell you otherwise. However, living in Oregon will increase your tolerance for choss a bit

 

related thread:

three sisters traverse

[Chriznitch]

by the way, I'd recommend a car shuttle (or hitchhiking) if you are really gonna do it.

Obsidian or Pole Creek work as a starting points, with Devil's Lake being the obvious finish

[iain]

and whatever you do, don't be this guy:

 

http://www.bendbulletin.com/news/story.cfm?story_no=4353

[Couloir]

So, did the ever find that cat?

[Dru]

So, did the ever find that cat?

reward!

[Alex]

You could easily climb the NE arete from Pole Creek. I suggest doing it before June.

[Mike_G]

This mountain is best described as a pile of loosely stacked crumbling graham crackers.

 

...or a giant litter box full of cat shit that comes off in your hand.

 

I would definitely recommend Jeff Thomas's Oregon High. I think I got mine a few years ago by writing to the Mazamas.

 

Good luck!

[Couloir]

I would definitely recommend Jeff Thomas's Oregon High. I think I got mine a few years ago by writing to the Mazamas.

It's sold in virtually every climbing shop that sells books (Climb Axe, US Outdoor, Mountain Shop, OMC, REI, et.al.) and yes, it's a great guidebook.