Sol Posted April 11, 2005 Share Posted April 11, 2005 I don't know who's taking the bail biners off my personal projects up at Baker rocks but you should be forewarned that all the biners i leave up there have been retired from my rack because of wear, droppage, sticky gates, or whatever. the only thing i use them for is lowering off of 35 ft sport routes that i can't get up. i could be able to understand if someone is offended because they think its litter, but i would not use any of those biners for any truly important applications. as i am still a ways from finishing all of the routes in the pumphouse, i will continue to leave them. PM me if you want to chat. sol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phatcat Posted April 11, 2005 Share Posted April 11, 2005 (edited) do you know whats up with that big long piece of rope on one of the routes? (can't remember which one) if anything needs to be removed its that thing. btw, i plan on leaving a fair amount of bail biners at the pump house this summer... Edited April 11, 2005 by phatcat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted April 11, 2005 Author Share Posted April 11, 2005 the rope is part of a 5.13? project that some glacier locals have been working. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanTriplett Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 I haven't climbed there in years, but once spent lots of time there during college. Where is this "new" project located? Is it in the main pumphouse area or off to the right? Either way, I'd have to say the "the pinch" would remain the best climb there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 I don't know who's taking the bail biners off my personal projects up at Baker rocks but you should be forewarned that all the biners i leave up there have been retired from my rack because of wear, droppage, sticky gates, or whatever. the only thing i use them for is lowering off of 35 ft sport routes that i can't get up. i could be able to understand if someone is offended because they think its litter, but i would not use any of those biners for any truly important applications. as i am still a ways from finishing all of the routes in the pumphouse, i will continue to leave them. PM me if you want to chat. sol Having junk biners taking up valuable space in bolt hangers is a pain in the ass for other parties who are climbing the route, especially for those who are trying to onsight your proj', and have to contend with your jingus links clogging up the hangers. Whoever removed them probably chucked them into the forest, as everyone and their dog knows that bail biners are generally shite. 'samatter, ain'tchoo heard of a stick clip? Most modern stick clips can damn near tag the anchors on a 35' sport rig (but not a 35' trad rig--go figure). Happy flailing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted April 12, 2005 Author Share Posted April 12, 2005 Good to know about the biners clogging up the space DFA. Fortunately all the hangers that i had bolts on could also accompany a quick draw at the same time (that's what i did). i don't really care that people are taking my biners, i leave them only for mere convienence, i just wanted them to know their story. the cool thing is that the hardest route at the crag, Pinch of Death, 12d, seems to be getting climbed regularly. cheers to whoever's sending that on the daily. As for stick clips, i'm just too much of a trad climber to get into those shenanigans yet. but maybe its time to turn to the dark side. sure would speed up the aid game. sol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sol Posted April 12, 2005 Author Share Posted April 12, 2005 I haven't climbed there in years, but once spent lots of time there during college. Where is this "new" project located? Is it in the main pumphouse area or off to the right? Either way, I'd have to say the "the pinch" would remain the best climb there. it's off to the right just around the corner from the Pumphouse proper: in between the pumphouse and a trad route with one bolt (don't know much about it). where did you find the crux on the pinch to be? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_Puget Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 Is the Pinch (.12c?) and kinda in the middle of the wall between a couple of .11s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 12, 2005 Share Posted April 12, 2005 As for stick clips, i'm just too much of a trad climber to get into those shenanigans yet. but maybe its time to turn to the dark side. sure would speed up the aid game. sol Come on, they come in that swell happy yellow color to match your sporty sport-climbin' shoes. And if anyone gives you any shit, you can tell 'em you found it stashed under a rock, and you're haulin' that sport climber trash back to the dumpster, good tradly citizen that you are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanTriplett Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 The pinch ... yes it is the one in the center of the wall (just left of the popular "go-go gadget"). It goes through a wavy buldge down low and finish atop the mini roof. So where is this .13 project there? I briefly tried the "project at the time I was there" climb in the cave way off to the right (in a cave-like area with a make shift bench below it) but the fucker seeped so bad I quit. Could this be the climb you are referring too? I always thought that the Pumphouse was a fun place (and dry too!). Make sure you stop for a pint at the North Fork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RyanTriplett Posted April 13, 2005 Share Posted April 13, 2005 Oh, shit ... sorry I didn't even see your post. I know where you are referring too. The Pinch, I'd say down low is the crux yet you could blow it getting over the little roof at the top (pretty much a mantle to a stance at the chains). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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