Bill_Simpkins Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 Climb: Mt. Sefrit -Southeast Ridge - Attempt Date of Climb: 3/13/2005 Trip Report: Me and Chuck E tried to climb the SE ridge of Sefrit on Sunday. We were aware of the longer, more gentler approach that takes the route closer to Hannegan Pass, but we opted for the appraoch in the Beckey book instead, as it was more direct. At 7:00 am we hiked up the Hannegan Pass trail for a mile or so and hiked down the dried-up streambed to the river. We crossed the river on a good log and headed up for 20 minutes or so on loose boulders and avalanche debris. -We went up the trees and slabs to the right of the slot just right of center. Nachaktsen Peak is on the left. big version of picture We decided not to take the steep-walled slot-col as described in the Beckey book, because the lack of snow would have provided us with sketchy punch-throughs etc... We headed up the trees just right of the slot and left of the slabs. After about half an hour of very steep bushwacking through slide alders we headed out onto the slabs to the right. -Look down to the right onto the slabs. Big Version of Picture The slabs were pretty iced up and provided very little handholds and no protection. it was too late, however, to go back into the trees and we had to commit to going up. We traversed farther right to a schrub and I was able to dig out my rope and a double runner but nothing else. I threw an end up to Chuck before he had to do some 5.6 ish friction moves on the damp/icy slab in his hiking boots. I girth hitched together the different branchs on the bush to try and provide somewhat of a belay. The fall would have been bad. 200-300 fit on a steep slab to moating steep snow. He went up until the rope ran out and provided a somewhat solid hip belay while standing on a handhold. I made it to him witht the rope tied around my wrist and then we scrambled right and were safe on the snow. We should have put on our harnesses down lower, but we got caught off gaurd. The snow was hard so we put on crampons and ascended a snowy gully to the glacier. The glacier was a straight forward mini-slog to the top of the ridge. Our adventure on the slabs took its toll on the time, as it was already noon. -Chuck on the nice snow. Bigger Version. Nice picture The sun was beating down hard on the slopes which showed recent slide activity and we decided to retreat in interest of safety and an engagement at 6:30. -Pretty fresh slides near the ridge crest. bigger version of slides ON the way down we were able to stay in the steep trees and slide alder with one or two class 3-4 sections, but safe. We got to the truck at 4:00. I can post close up pictures of Sefrit if anyone wants to see them. Gear Notes: Crampons, Ice Axe, slings, rope. A picket or two would be nice if going to the summit this time of year. Approach Notes: Either go the longer mellower way, stay in the trees between the slot and the slabs, or take the slot when there is plenty of snow. Watch for slides and cornices high above. Stay off the slabs, especially this time of year. The ridge to the summit looks straight forward. Just stay off the cornices early season. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whiplash Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Good work and nice Pics! Which route are you talkin about that starts closer to H. Pass? We did the route up through the gully mentioned in Beckey book a few years ago in August and it goes fine, bit of 4th class at the top that we rapped on the way down. The ridge below the summit is fun and exposed, imagine it would be a bit more exciting in the winter..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bill_Simpkins Posted March 17, 2005 Author Share Posted March 17, 2005 (edited) Yeah, we were off route a bit because the conditions made the standard route look sketchy, although looking back, maybe safer than the way we went. There is another route closer to the pass with some really mellow terrain. I found this website: The pictures are on the left I want to try this way next time! probably the way to go with the current conditions. More snow, the route we went, but through the slot would be the easiest, I think. Edited March 17, 2005 by Bill_Simpkins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyclimber Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Gnarly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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