[TR] Index Upper Wall- Heaven's Gate 3/13/2005

[colt45]

Climb: Index Upper Wall-Heaven's Gate

 

Date of Climb: 3/13/2005

 

Trip Report:

This climb is absolutely spectacular! Trip report and photos are here.

 

Gear Notes:

14+ qds, standard rack for lamplighter, 2 60m ropes or 1 70m.

[Alex]

gonna have to try that one!

[Matt_Anderson]

to Beta Dave

[colt45]

who is Beta Dave?

[jhc]

This picture rocks!

[slothrop]

who is Beta Dave?

 

David Gunstone, I believe. He was a pretty active climber around here, did some route development at Index. He died not too long ago climbing in Squamish.

[chucK]

David Gunstone put up Heaven's Gate.

 

Mike, your gear rec is a bit confusing. Since a single 70m will suffice, I assume two 50's would work wouldn't they?

 

Another cool Index picture from Colt45's webpage

[colt45]

Yep, 2 50's would work. So would 2 35's...I just consider 60m to be the 'default' length but I guess a lot of people use 50's to save weight.

 

I didn't realize that the FA is the same guy who died on Exasperator. The bolt placements are perfect and incredibly bomber (1/2" stainless, huge chains & 3 bolts at each belay), not to mention the quality of the climbing...he really knew how to establish a classic.

[matt_m]

Yep, 2 50's would work. So would 2 35's...I just consider 60m to be the 'default' length but I guess a lot of people use 50's to save weight.

 

I didn't realize that the FA is the same guy who died on Exasperator. The bolt placements are perfect and incredibly bomber (1/2" stainless, huge chains & 3 bolts at each belay), not to mention the quality of the climbing...he really knew how to establish a classic.

 

No kidding - Senseless thoughts of paranoia is pretty cool as well. Anyone know where he got all his chain and bolts and such? His replacement makes Index all that much cooler. And that Chain! That'll be there for a long long time.